Moving east through Europe, we had to decide where we were going to stay. Vienna and Budapest were definitely on our must-see list, but we weren’t sure where to stay that would offer reasonable accommodations. The answer? Bratislava, Slovakia. Located an hour by train from Vienna and less than three hours from Budapest, Bratislava is a lesser-known capital in what used to be part of Czechoslovakia, and a perfect base of operations.
We stayed on the 20th floor of a high-rise in Petržalka, a suburb across the Danube River from old town Bratislava. With the city’s secondary train station across the street and bus stops right outside the front door, the city center was less than 15 minutes by public transport. The hosts were fantastic, and the apartment afforded us amazing sunsets to the west and the city skyline to the north.
Bratislava
Different from other highly touristed European cities, Bratislava has a special vibe. With the Danube winding along the southern edge of town and views of the Little Carpathian Mountains, this city with its compact old town is charming and friendly. There is an outdoor-café lifestyle here that is comfortable and appealing.
The Bratislava Castle looms over the landscape – housing a history museum and the city’s Treasury, it’s a quick walk up the hill from St. Martin’s Cathedral and historical old town. Generally speaking, the city is very walkable – one could enjoy the castle, the cathedral and old town, along with the presidential palace over the course of one day.
Vienna
Austria’s capital and most populated city, Vienna is often called The City of Music due to the long list of historic musicians who have called the city home, including Mozart, Beethoven and Strauss. The city is also known for its imperial palaces, and stood at the center of the Habsburg empire. While the monarchy came to an end in 1918, their influence on Austria and the surrounding countries is still present.
We spent a long weekend in Vienna and, as always, felt like we just scratched the surface. The highlights we experienced include Schönbrunn (the Habsburgs’ summer residence), St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the Albertina Museum, and The Hofburg complex, which includes the Sisi Museum, a tribute to Austria’s beloved Empress Elisabeth (for reference, watch the Netflix series The Empress.) Also worth a visit is the Imperial crypt, known as the Capuchin Crypt, a burial chamber beneath the church housing the remains of Habsburg Emperors.
In the spirit of the musical history of the city, we would also recommend a classical music experience: there are several you can book online, and you’ll find many venues throughout the city that sell tickets in the tourist areas and squares. We purchased tickets with Vienna Supreme Concerts and enjoyed waltzes, arias and operetta with dancers, singing and a small 5-piece orchestra in Palais Eschenbach, an historical building inaugurated in 1872.
We stayed at the Acom-Hotel Vienna, two blocks away from Vienna Central Train station. As is typical with our experience in Europe, mass transit is easy to navigate – the same applies to Vienna. Getting into town was easy, and getting around was even easier with the Vienna City Card. Available for 24, 48, or 72 hours, the card not only allows you unlimited travel on all local trains, trams, buses and metro, you can also use it for discounts at some museums and attractions. You can purchase the passes online to print at home, or a physical card at the airport and larger train stations.
A few food recommendations for Vienna: you have to try the Wiener Schnitzel at least once or twice – be aware that if you stop by a place such as Restaurant Bier & Bierli, the portion may be huge, so you could probably split an order with a friend. It’s commonly served with a warm, very delicious potato salad. Also a must is Apple Strudel, something the Austrians seem to have absolutely mastered. Past visitors might recommend trying Sachertorte, a decadent chocolate cake whose origin is hotly debated (translated: a couple restaurants argue over who created it) – we would suggest you stop by iconic Café Demel if you’d like to try it, but even better is the Kaiserschmarrn, a lightly-sweetened pancake served with stewed plums. (It’s seriously delicious.)
Budapest
Though inhabited for millennia, the city of Budapest was officially created in November of 1873 with the merger of three neighboring cities Buda, Pest and Óbuda. Other towns on the outskirts later became part of the boundary as well, creating the city once called The Queen of the Danube. A favorite of Habsburg royalty, the city was heavily influenced by them throughout their reign, and their impact can still be seen.
Budapest has mastered the art of municipal display – seeing the sights of the city is special, but seeing the city at night, especially from the Danube, is spectacular (see photo above). Bisected by the river, hilly Buda and flat Pest combine to form one of the most striking cities we’ve experienced. According to Shawn, the resident architecture geek, the Hungarian Parliament Building on the banks of the Danube is his “favorite building in Europe” (and we’ve seen a lot of buildings in Europe).
As it typical for our side trips, we looked for accommodation close to the station and stayed at the Crowne Plaza Budapest, steps from the Nyugati Station. Breakfast was included with our stay and the breakfast buffet is no joke – we were impressed with the selection and quality, and it made for a great start to our tie there. Quick note: I left my Yeti water bottle in our room when we departed suddenly due to a timing error on my part, and the hotel not only found it for me but shipped it to me in Bratislava.
This list of stuff to do in Budapest is long. We took the time to visit the following:
- Buda Castle and Castle Hill– looming over the city, the hill and castle grounds feature the Hungarian National Gallery and Gothic altars and sculptures. Entry into the castle grounds is free, and you can walk the ramparts for views of the city below.
- Night Cruise on the Danube – this one was fun – an hour and a half cruise on the Danube, unlimited Prosecco: what more could you need? But seriously, the crowd was fun, the crew was attentive, and the city is gorgeous.
- St. Stephen’s Basilica – named in honor of Stephen, the first king of Hungary, whose right hand is in the church’s reliquary.
- Széchenyi Chain Bridge – the oldest suspension bridge, it was completed in 1849 and became a symbol of the city’s architectural heritage.
- Ruin Bars Budapest – a very eclectic collection of bars in an abandoned building, you’ll find people of all ages enjoying a cocktail or beer.
- Széchenyi Thermal Baths – built in 1913, it’s one of the largest spa baths in Europe and is supplied by two thermal springs. The surrounding buildings are ornate and the thermal-fed waters supply medicinal components long thought be therapeutic. It’s definitely relaxing, and a unique experience.
- Shoes on the Danube – near the parliament building, look for the iron shoes on the bank of the river, a memorial placed in 2005 to honor those massacred during World War II.
For more recommendations of things to do and where to eat, visit our TripAdvisor Travel Map.
