Ooh-la-la, Paris.
One of us has had Paris on their bucket list for decades; the other agreed to tag along. It’s been Jen’s dream to visit since high school, and this city did not disappoint. We took every opportunity to explore, and the list of things to do and places to see is seemingly endless.
We stayed in the Levallois-Perret commune (basically a suburb) about 4 miles (6 km) from the center of Paris. The area is lively and growing, with plenty of shopping and dining options. A great area to stay, with easy access to the Paris Metro, which will get you to la Tour Eiffel within 20-30 minutes.
Our apartment was okay; definitely not the roomiest place we’ve stayed, but within our budget and close to transit stations. And while the host seemed friendly and communicative, there were a couple issues that were reported but never addressed, so we’re opting not to share the link, as we would not recommend it to others.
Things To Do & See
Paris, a.k.a. The City of Lights and The City of Love has a tremendous history and experiences galore. Besides the well-known attractions that come to mind (Tour Eiffel, the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe), you have a never-ending list of options of museums, parks, churches and other notable places. We took every opportunity to visit something nearly every day of our four-week stay.
Anyone staying for a shorter period of time would likely plan for Parisian hot-spots, such as those listed above. There are also a ton of other places worth visiting, some of which we will highlight here. One suggestion is to buy the Paris Pass®, a multi-day pass that gets you into a ton of museums and attractions. Starting at €89 for the 2-day option, opt for the four or six day passes and monuments like the Louvre and Eiffel Tower are included.
To start: the quintessential icons of Paris. Our first stop on the day after our arrival was the Arc de Triomphe; located at the western end of Champs-Élysées in the étoile, or “star”, of the juncture formed by the twelve avenues that radiate from it. We were surprised by the sheer size, and would recommend buying a ticket online ahead of your visit, allowing you to skip the line. Go to the top tp view the Paris skyline; you will not be disappointed.
Iconic to the skyline of Paris is la Tour Eiffel. Located on the bank of the Seine, you can buy entry to the second deck, or all the way to the summit, if weather permits. Buy tickets online ahead of your visit (up to 60 days in advance), or you will likely have to wait in line for up to an hour or longer. We were able to make our way to the top, but those familiar with the monument say the best view is from the second observation deck. And stick around after dark, when the tower is illuminated for five minutes at the top of each hour with brilliant sparkling lights.
The following are considered must-see destinations, and we would definitely recommend them. Since they are so well-known and covered thoroughly online, we’ll mention them briefly here:
- Louvre – it’s huge, could take days to fully explore, and seeing the Mona Lisa was pretty amazing
- Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris – though the interior is closed and still under renovation after the fire in April 2019, it’s still awe-inspiring and worth a stop
- Basilique du Sacré-Cœur – perched on a hill over Paris, entry into the basilica is free; for an amazing experience, opt for a climb to the dome for 8€ (be aware, there are 300 steps to the top, and no elevator/lift)
- Montmartre – walk through the 18th arrondissement surrounding the basilica, with an artists’ village once inhabited by Dali and Picasso
- Palace of Versailles – located in a village/commune of the same name, the opulent 18-century palace is amazing. And for 18€ you can rent a rowboat for an hour and view the grounds from the Grand Canal
In addition to the more recognized landmarks, we were fortunate to experience other monuments and museums that we enjoyed much more than expected. First on this list would be Giverny, home to Monet and his incredible gardens. You can tour the home he lived in, as well as the gardens he called his greatest masterpiece. It was the one thing Shawn had on his list to visit while in Paris, and it ended up being one of the highlights of our time there. Many operators offer tour from Paris, including the tour we booked.
An unusual experience is the Catacombs of Paris; located underground in former limestone mining tunnels, it features millions of ghoulish skeletons transferred from the overcrowded cemeteries of Paris in the late 18th century. You must buy tickets ahead of time, or you will not get in. Due to fraud, tickets are only available for the next seven days online here, and make sure to arrive a little early, because any entry outside of your purchased time slot cannot be guaranteed.
Most surprising was the Palais Garnier, also known as the Paris Opera House. Arguable more opulent than Versailles, you can tour on your own or with a guide. We were able to get in right away without pre-purchasing tickets, but you may want to book ahead of option for the guided tour. We would also highly recommend Sainte-Chapelle and la Conciergerie. The chapel will blow your mind, and the nearby Conciergerie fortress is where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned prior to her death by guillotine. You can purchase a combined ticket and visit both monuments together.
If you are looking for other quick, interesting experiences, try these options:
- Galeries Lafayette Haussmann – now a high-end department store, you’ll be blown away by the interior dome
- Musee de L’Orangerie – showcasing eight of Monet’s water lilies murals , as well as pieces by Matisse, Rousseau, and Renoir.
- Pere Lachaise Cemetery – stroll through the beautiful and peaceful resting place of notable figures both French and international
- Champs-Élysées – a quick trip for us, it could also be a day-long experiences as you wander the shopping and boutique mecca
- Pantheon – an 18th century mausoleum, you can walk through the crypt to visit the tombs of the people who shaped France. And marvel at Foucault’s Pendulum as it swings over the mirrored floor
- Musee de Cluny – Paris’ medieval art museum, one of the highlights is the gothic mansion it’s housed in
Eats
One of our favorite things about the city is the food (always). As expected, there is no shortage of good food in Paris, and all throughout France. Wander down the streets in and around Paris and you will find a myriad of options for dining. It’s commonplace to see locals munching on baguettes, or drinking coffee in front of the local cafes in what Jen nicknamed “judgement seats”. While we try to make reservations for dining, especially on weekend nights, more often than not, our dining choices were determined by hunger, timing, and convenience. Here are some of the places we found:
- Pizzeria Delizioso Levallois – a local pizza joint, the owner was friendly and even gave us a bottle of rose to enjoy when the wine shops had already closed for the night. Oh, and the pizzas were, in fact, the best in Levallios-Perret
- Café du Rendez-Vous – located near the catacombs, the patio offers great space for people watching and a variety of cuisines to choose from
- Lazy Brunch (Levallois-Perret) – a fantastic brunch restaurant just blocks from our apartment; they were temporarily sharing the space with another eatery and have since opened their own location. Highly recommended
- Le Deauville (Champs-Elysees) – good spot for cocktails, salads and sandwiches. A little spendy, but hey: you’re dining on Champs-Élysées
- Le George V – a great bistro near the Seine, try the risotto
- ASPIC – we celebrated our 25th anniversary at this wonderful Michelin star restaurant; the food was fantastic, and the staff was even better
- Le Vagenende – a traditional French brasserie, everything was very good from the crab millefeuille starter to the Rum Baba dessert
- Le Riff – another favorite in Levallios-Perret, it has a simple but delicious menu, and the bread from a local bakery was amazing
- Polpo Brasserie (Levallois-Perret)– located in a barge on the Seine near our place, it was a recommendation from the owner of Lazy Brunch. The mussels were good, and the lobster was surprisingly inexpensive.
- Little Red Door – voted one of the best bars in the world, get there close to opening so you don’t have to wait too long. The cocktails are exceptionally though-out and unique
- Les Deaux Palais – across the street from Sainte-Chappelle, we opted for Parisian staples of French onion soup, escargot, and salted-caramel crepes. Delicious food on a rainy day
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