After the hustle and bustle of Paris, it was a nice change of pace to head to the Provence region and stay in Marseille. It’s laid-back nature, generally warm climate, and dynamic cultural scene make it a popular place to visit.
Located in southern France, Marseille is the second most populous city in the country and one of the major ports on the Mediterranean. The history of the city is long; founded by the Greeks around 600 B.C., it is also the oldest city in France, and one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. Central to life in Marseille is the port, established by the Greeks more than 2,000 years ago. Most tourists will flock to that area, but we would recommend heading away from the marina for better food options and lower price points.
We took the train from Paris to Marseille’s Saint-Charles station and stayed from mid-October to mid-November of 2022. As with other cities we’ve stayed in, we took advantage of the city’s transit system to get where we needed to go when it was too far to walk. Generally speaking, you won’t need a car unless you plan to leave the city.
Our place in Marseille was amazing, and host Marta is fantastic. The space was comfortable and large, with funky décor. It ticked all our boxes, with a well-stocked kitchen and plenty of space for both of us to work. Located in a former shoe factory, it’s now inhabited by artists and their workshops; a very cool, eclectic place to stay, and close to transit stations.
Things to Do & See
Lots to do in Marseille, and most activities are within walking distance or easily accessible by bus or tram. Start with the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde – perched on the highest point of Marseille, you can take a bus or walk up the hill for a 360° view of Marseille.
Near the port is Fort Saint-Jean, a fortification built in 1660 to protect the old port. You can tour the military complex and enjoy the views of Marseille. Walk further down the coast and you’ll find Cathédrale La Major, a Roman Catholic cathedral and French National Monument.
From the port, you can find a ferry to bring you to Îles du Frioul, a French archipelago with beaches and historical landmarks, and Île d’If, a small island with a 16th-century castle and former prison that is the setting for the Count of Monte Cristo. Ferries are offered daily from several operators (depending on weather), and can get you to the islands within 30 minutes.
We would also recommend visiting Calanques National Park; we did by so by Catamaran tour with host François. It’s less like a tour and more like hanging out on a friend’s boat – bring along a few snacks and beverages to share, and prepare to jump into the beautiful blue waters off the coast for a swim or just relax on the boat for the day.
Eats
It’s France, so there are great places to eat. Everywhere. Here are a few we’d recommend in Marseille and the surrounding areas.
- Le Caribou Marseille – located in a lively plaza just a block off the marina, the food was delicious and the staff is friendly.
- Quartier Libre – modern French food featuring tapas-style sharing plates.
- Le Cercle Rouge – away from the tourist traps, we had a delicious dinner with a fellow traveler we met on the catamaran tour.
- L’Oli Bé – dine on Spanish tapas on the terrace. The mojitos are especially good.
- Chez Roger – we ate here on our first night in Marseille, mostly for the sake of convenience; good food at a good price.
- Les 2 Terrasses, Nice – A lovely restaurant, we ate from their Lebanese menu and enjoyed every dish.
- La Villa Massenet, Nice – really delicious food in a cozy, modern space. The staff is excellent and the ambiance is great for date night.
Side Trips
Nice
We originally considered staying in Nice, but found the prices in Marseille to be a little more reasonable. With Nice about a three-hour train ride from Marseille, we opted to spend a weekend there and took a tour that included a visit to nearby Monaco, which we would absolutely recommend. Nice is also very close to the Italian border, so you could visit all three countries within a very short amount of time. The apartment we rented in Nice is in a great location, close to tons of restaurants and shops, and only a few blocks from the coast and its beaches.
While in Nice, we booked the Best of the Riviera Small-Group Guided Tour – we had an amazing, full-day tour with Alex, who drove us all over Provence. Stops include ritzy Antibes and Cannes, gorgeous St-Paul-de-Vence perched on a hilltop overlooking the valley and coast, and a long stop in Monaco to see the Prince’s palace and Monte Carlo Casino.
We also booked the No Diet Club! Nice Tour – guide Audrey was awesome, and we ate our way through old town Nice. Definitely come to this tour hungry, and be ready to experience what makes Niçoise food so special. If you have to skip the food tour but find yourself in old town, make sure to stop by one of our favorite shops, Olio Donato. Offering olive oil, truffle products and sweets, this artisanal shop is owned by a fantastic family who opened their shop specifically for our food tour. Try the truffle honey and salt, and don’t leave the shop without grabbing a jar or two of their hazelnut crème made with 58% hazelnuts – it’s the Nutella you’ve always dreamed of.
Gordes
Perched on a hilltop north of Marseille is the amazing town of Gordes. Considered one of the most well-known villages in Provence, and one of the most beautiful in France, the homes and buildings made of white stone are etched into the cliff overlooking the valley. Walk the cobblestone streets and visit the many shops and cafes.
Nîmes
Within a 90-minute drive of Marseille are endless villages and cities worth visiting. We chose to spend some time in Nîmes, featuring a Roman arena built circa 70 A.D. that is still used for concerts and bullfights. Close by is Pont du Gard, a three-tiered Roman aqueduct built in the first century that spans the Gardon river. You can walk the bridge and enjoy the hiking trails and park.
We would also recommend spending some time at one of the many wineries located near Nîmes – we found Château de Campuget to be especially lovely. Though there during the off-season and at the end of the day, the grounds are gorgeous and the wine is excellent; if you like reds, try the 1753 Grenache.
A side note: if you choose to rent a car, doing so is very easy, and recommended if you want to visit local wineries and nearby cities. We did not need a International Driving Permit (IDP) to rent a car while in France, but in some countries it’s often required, as you would need to present it if you’re stopped by local or national police.
