Gonna be honest here: this to date, has been the hardest page to write simply because this country has so much to offer. We saw a lot, but feel like we only scratched the surface.
So fantastic, we had to spend two months.
Italy is an amazing country – an insanely long history featuring 2,000+ year old Rome and some of the most incredible historical artifacts and sites we’ve ever seen. So many of the places we’ve grown up hearing about since childhood are here; the Colosseum, the Pantheon, Vatican City, the canals of Venice, Pompeii. This list is endless. And though we stayed for 8 weeks, we feel like we only got a taste of what it has to offer.
For our first four weeks, we stayed in an apartment in Torre Annunziata, just outside of Napoli (Naples). The second half of our visit was spent at a serviced apartment in Firenze (Florence), with side trips from both locations.
Both places were amazing, and perfect for our needs; both are also close to tram stops and train lines with easy access to grocery stores and shopping. The apartment in Torre Annunziata is owned by an incredibly lovely family who own the sandwich shop and grocery below the apartment; not only are they friendly, but they are gracious and attentive hosts. The same attention was offered at the apartment in Firenze, and we enjoyed both locations very much.
A little background about Italy – “Italian food” and even “Italian culture” are misnomers, because while the area’s history dates back thousands of years, the formation of the modern Italian state is not as recent. It began with unification in the 1800s, when the small kingdoms of the region were united. Incredibly, Italy was not established as a republic until 1946 after World War II. So when you talk about culture and cuisine, you have to be more specific; Tuscan culture, cuisine and wine are very different from that of Sicily, or Napoli or Roma. Each region, and sometimes each city within a region, has its own customs and specialties, and very different landscapes and climates.
First: the food. Pizza in Napoli. Carbonara in Roma. Pappardelle al Cinghiale in Firenze. Chianti in Tuscany. We most definitely ate our way through Italy and its many regions.
Some things I learned about food in Italy:
- “Italian” food or culture is a very broad term (see paragraph above).
- Do not add cream or milk to sauces; just use good cheese.
- I have been overcooking pasta my entire adult life.
- Everything is better with wine – or Limoncello.
If you find yourself in Italy, plan to eat. A lot. Food is a central part of the culture, and it is absolutely delicious. Typical menus include Antipasti (“before the meal”), Primi (first course), Secondi (Second Course) with Contorni (side dishes), and, of course, Dolci (dessert). Primi is always your carb-based dish, a.k.a. pasta. Secondi features your meat/protein options. While it’s common for meat to be served on pasta in the U.S., you will not see meat on a pasta dish in a traditional restaurant (with the exception of guanciale in your carbonara).
It’s not required that each person eats a dish from each course – we preferred to share an antipasti and primi, and each indulge in a main course to ourselves. We also normally share a dessert but found that some dinners required two – one of us doesn’t like coffee, and tiramisu is an absolute must while in Italy.
During our stay, we took the weekends to experience as much of the country as possible, more so than any other destination we’ve visited. As such, here’s another slight change in format compared to our other pages. We’ll start with the list of regions we visited, and include the cities we stayed in. Most of the recommendations will relate to places and activities, sprinkled with local hotel/accommodations and a few restaurants that we especially enjoyed.
Campania
Napoli (Naples)
The birthplace of pizza: a visit requires that you try the various kinds that have been perfected here. You have the traditional pizza, typically eaten with utensils if you’re sitting down at the dinner table. A common option is pizza Margherita, named in honor of the Queen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy, and the Italian unification. A huge draw is the street ‘za; for a couple euros, order from a cart or shop where the pizza is double-folded and served on-the-go. Also try Pizza Fritta, filled and fried to perfection.
While in Napoli (also referred to as Naples in other parts of the world), head to Spaccanapoli, the main promenade for tourists. The long street has great restaurants, tons of souvenir shops, and provides access to many of the city’s main attractions. We recommend visiting one of the many churches in the area, with a stop at a local bakery for a Sfogliatelle, a really delicious shell-shaped Italian pastry. And one absolute must: the Sansevero Chapel Museum (Capella Sansevero) that, in our humble opinions, houses one of the most beautiful sculptures of all time, Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ.
We would also recommend the Naples Street Food Tour; amazing guide Alex walked us through the city to taste the best that Napoli has to offer.
Torre Annunziata
Considered a suburb of Napoli, this city isn’t on the radar of most visitors to the area, but became our home base for the first month of our trip and ended up being a really great area to stay.
Less than two blocks from the apartment is Scavi di Oplontis – Villa Poppea, an ancient Roman villa used by Emperor Nero’s beloved wife. We also experienced a really amazing sailboat tour from the local marina with skipper Fabio – we sailed all day along the Sorrento coast and had an amazing gnocchi lunch on board.
Pompeii & Herculanuem
Near Naples and about 20 km apart from each other, both archaeological parks sit at the base of Vesuvius and are each ancient wonders. Pompeii, undoubtedly the better known of the two, was a sprawling metropolis in its time and is further from the mountain. Herculaneum is nearer to the coast and smaller in area, and was considered a wealthier town. Their position in relation to the volcano resulted in different types of preservation, with Pompeii covered in ash and its counterpart sealed in mud. As a result, the excavations in Herculaneum preserved more organic material (wood, bones, cloth) and the beautiful mosaics, while Pompeii is better known for the plaster body-shaped casts.
Both sites can be visited in one day, but it would be a long day. If you’re debating between one or the other, consider your preferences: Pompeii is larger and undoubtedly iconic, with a number of tour options offered at the site and is likely to take all day to explore. Herculaneum is significantly smaller but incredibly preserved, and better for those with less time
Also in the area is Mount Vesuvius itself. You can take the Circumvesuviana train to the Ercolano station, which is also the best way to get to Herculanuem. Just outside of the station is the stop for the bus to Mount Vesuvius; operating every hour from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., you’ll be transported up to the transit area on the mountain and allowed two hours to climb up the trail. Booking in advance to enter the park is recommended, and you can pre-select your ticket time. Pre-booking also means you have priority for the bus ride up the mountain. The views of Naples and the gulf are stunning.
Sorrento
A beautiful coastal city in the region, and a gateway to the Amalfi Coast and Capri. You can get to Sorrento from Napoli by train (allow 75-90 minutes) on the Circumvesuviana train line. From there, buses and ferries can get you to the popular spots along the coast. You can also get from Sorrento to Napoli by ferry in a little over an hour (popular for tourists coming from the cruise ships who want to wander around freely).
One thing to try in Sorrento is the limoncello; you can find it in shops all over the city, and especially along the main tourist street. (P.S., Sorrento’s lemons are HUGE.)
Capri
If you find yourself in or near Sorrento, take the ferry to Capri for a few hours. The iconic island is unique and beautiful, and you can bring your swim gear and hang out for a beach day or make your way to the towering hills in the funicular. Stop by one of the many boat operator booths for a quick tour around the island, most of which include a stop at the famed Blue Grotto. Pro Tip: while we heard the Blue Grotto was incredible, we didn’t have it in us to wait 2-hours on a bobbing boat for our turn; we’ll let you decide for yourself if it’s worth the wait.
Amalfi Coast – Positano & Amalfi
Another absolutely iconic area of southern Italy, the Amalfi Coast is undeniably gorgeous. We found ourselves heading to Positano by bus after rough seas canceled a day trip. While we enjoyed the postcard-worthy views of the city, the climb up and down hills in the heat was less than desirable; just be aware that it takes some effort. Our experience in Amalfi was brief while on an exceptional boat trip with You Know! Tours with host Francesca and skipper Nello.
Lazio
Roma
No visit to Italy is complete without time spent in Roma. The city is ancient and, unbelievably, so much of its history is still accessible for visits and exploration. We hit as many of the main attractions as possible, including Vatican City, the Colosseum, Pantheon, Castel San Angelo, Trevi Fountain and, and, and…
We stayed in Municipio IV at the Urban Garden Hotel; a bit outside of the city center, it’s near a metro station with easy access to Stazione Roma Termini (less than 20 minutes). Getting around on public transit is easy; depending on the length of your stay, you can buy the Roma Card for 24-, 48-, or 72-hours, which allows you access on all metros, trams and buses. Staying outside of the tourist hot-spots will likely mean more affordable options for accommodations, especially during high-season.
The history, architecture and sheer magnitude of sightseeing of this city is unbelievable. We explored for three full days and felt like it could have been 30 more. As usual, part of the exploration included the Rome Street Food Tour – wandering plus stories plus food? Nothing better. And if you’re near the Colosseum and looking for a delicious dinner option, check out Hostaria I Clementini, right down the street from the famous monument; not only is the food delicious, but the staff are friendly and attentive.
Liguria
La Spezia & Cinque Terre
We spent a lot of weekends taking side trips, and La Spezia was the home-base for our experience in Cinque Terre. Known for its string of old fishing villages perched high on the hills of the Riviera, Cinque Terre (translation: Five Lands) has become a must-see destination in Northern Italy, full of Instagram-worthy spots and scenic views.
Le Spezia is a great location to stay, and accommodation options are likely to cost less than in the five villages it’s become associated with. We stayed at a small apartment conveniently located between the station and the port, with great access to restaurants and shops.
With regular trains into La Spezia from airports in Pisa or Genoa, there’s no need to rent a car. After you arrive, head to the ticket office at Stazione La Spezia Centrale and purchase tickets for the Cinque Terre Express, which runs from La Spezia to in the south up to Levanto in the north. Single tickets are available for €5 per journey, or you can opt for the daily ticket for €18.20 with unlimited rides on the train. Travel only takes a few minutes between villages; we chose to visit Vernazza, Riomaggiore and Manarola.
Each village offers a different vibe – stay in Corniglia for a quieter, less touristy experience, head to Monterosso al Mare for the beach experience. Vernazza is the busiest of the five towns, with Manorola considered to be the most photographed, and Riomaggiore the most populated. Hiking trails are located between several of the cities, and you’ll need to purchase the Cinque Terre card to access the trails. Whichever village(s) you choose, be prepared for stunning views and lots to experience.
One thing we would absolutely recommend is seeing Cinque Terre as it’s meant to seen: from the water. Ferries are available from March to November, with stops at all the villages. We booked a coastal boat tour with host Massimo and had the most amazing time. Cinque Terre from a 30-foot (10-meter) wooden boat was beyond magical, and Massimo throws a great party.
Toscana (Tuscany)
Firenze (Florence)
Firenze is a must-see city if you have a love of art and architecture. The capital of the Tuscan region, it is the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and home to the Medici, the infamous family considered the most important to have ever lived. It’s here you can find the Duomo, the statue of David by Michelangelo (which, by the way, is huge), and countless Renaissance artworks. The city is the birthplace of Dante Alighieri, the aforementioned Michelangelo, Galileo and Leonardo da Vinci, and the historical center is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our home while in Firenze was across the river from the tourist center in a beautiful, roomy serviced apartment. Very close to bus lines, and a few blocks from the tram that will get you to the center of activity within 15 minutes.
Some suggestions for things to do in Firenze:
- Climb the Duomo; entry into the cathedral is free, but to climb the dome and the nearby tower, you’ll need to buy tickets ahead of time. Buy them early, as they sell out fairly fast
- Galleria dell’Accademia – this is where you’ll see the statue of David, among other notable art. Definitely buy tickets ahead of time (they sell out faster than the Duomo), and be aware that there is also a gallery by the same name in Venice. If you’re there on the first Sunday of the month, entry is free all day, but be ready for the line around the block/blocks (the line moves fairly quickly)
- Ponte Vecchio – an iconic structure, it’s a medieval stone bridge that crosses the Arno River; it’s the only bridge in Firenze that was spared in the bombings of WWII. A beautiful backdrop for photos, but not a lot to see on the actual bridge other than gold and jewelry shops. We do recommend crossing the bridge and hanging out in the neighborhood on the side of the river opposite District 1
- Hit the Mercato Centrale, where you can order drinks from the central bar, and food from one of the many food stalls on the second floor. The ground floor is full of shops featuring fresh foods and Italian market items
- Look for the buchette del vino, or wine windows, located in the city – they’ve been used for hundreds of years to sell wine without having to open a shop (and to avoid paying taxes). Historically, the windows have never been officially catalogued in the public archives, but the Buchette del Vino Associazione Culturale has a comprehensive list of wine windows open in the city.
Panzano in Chianti
This sleepy town south of Firenze is quite beautiful. In the center of the Chianti Classico wine zone (yes, that Chianti), it’s perched on a hilltop with vista of the nearby valleys.
The central square has lots of restaurants and local artisan shops, but what brought us there was Antica Macelleria Cecchini, a now infamous shop and restaurant thanks to butcher Dario Cecchini’s love for sharing his food. An eighth-generation butcher, Dario and his shop were featured on season 6 of the Netflix show Chef’s Table. The experience is incredible: with three set-menu dining options, you’re invited in with a glass of Chianti and smiles from the staff. The meat is high-quality, served with several sides. Make a reservation as soon as you can, and buon appetito.
Torre
Only 31 miles (50km) from Firenze is the village of Torre, featuring Dalle Nostre Mani Vineyard and Farmhouse La Pineta. An organic vineyard, working farm and reconstructed farmhouse offering accommodation and “agristourismo”. We participated in the My Farm Experience with a group from Firenze, which included transport to the farm, a vineyard and cellar tour, wine tasting and a pasta class. Amazing day in an unbelievably picturesque location, and the family are wonderful hosts.
Veneto
Venice (Venezia)
The capital of Italy’s northern region, Venezia is everything you’ve heard and more. Built on more than 100 small islands in a lagoon of the Adriatic Sea, there are no roads or cars; just canals lined with palaces from the Renaissance and myriad Gothic buildings. With easy access by train, the entire city is walkable and linked by its 400 iconic bridges. With tons of hotels, restaurants, shops and attractions, there’s an endless list of things to do and see. We stayed at a boutique hotel for a long weekend, but would love to have stayed for an extra day or two.
Venice is mostly populated by tourists, with some locals living in the tourist center and the remaining majority residing in the mainland. The historic center is made up of six districts, called sestieri. It’s in the San Marco district that you’ll find the main attractions like Basilica of Saint Mark and St. Mark’s Square, the Doge Palace, La Fenice (Venezia’s famed opera house), and the Rialto Bridge. It’s recommended that you book tours well ahead of time, especially for the Basilica, as it can get crazy busy. Some of the other attractions don’t require advance booking, such as the opera house and the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, a restored 15-th century palace with great views of the neighborhood.
The official symbol of Venezia may be the Lion of St. Mark, but unofficial symbol is the gondola and its gondolier – a visit to the city wouldn’t be complete without the experience. You’ll see dozens of boats, ferries and gondolas in the Grand Canal; as beautiful as it is, we found the rides in the smaller canals to be lovely. Expect to pay between €80-€100 ($87-$110 USD), plus tip if you’re particularly impressed with the gondolier. A great place to access the boats is Gondola Bacino Orseolo near the Hard Rock Café. The boats are in constant movement and the wait shouldn’t be too long, even at peak times; plan to bring cash for payment.
The main thing we recommend in Venezia is wandering and getting lost; make sure you have a maps app available to get you back to familiar territory, but take some time to make random turns and you’ll find amazing architecture, traditional costume shops, and more canals and foot bridges than you ever knew existed.
Eats
Some of our favorite restaurants, along with the city you can find them in:
- DocSicil Oplontis (Torre Annunziata)
- Pizzeria Oplonti (Torre Annunziata)
- Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle (Napoli)
- L’Approdo 1980 Food & Drink (Capri)
- 86 Bistro (Sorrento)
- Hostaria I Clementini (Roma)
- La Scarpetta (Firenze)
- B.O.r.G.O. (Firenze)
- La Cantina del Macellaio (Riomaggiore)
- Punto G (Venezia)
General Travel Tips in Italy
- Use the app CityMapper for public transit options.
- Regional train tickets can be purchased at transit booths/windows or at automated machines in the train stations. In Napoli and the surrounding area, you can scan a credit card on the small machines marked “In” and “Out” near the station entry; just make sure you scan out on your way through or your card will be charged for the maximum line fare.
- In other areas of the country (such as Firenze), you need to validate or stamp small tickets on the train, tram or bus; these types of tickets can be purchased at local tobacco shops or at machines/kiosks at stations and tram stops, and allow you to ride with transfers for up to 90 minutes in Firenze, and 70 minutes in other areas of Tuscany. Tickets can be purchased in advanced (we bought 10 at a time), and validated when you’re ready to ride using the machines on the buses/trams. You must validate the tickets on the designated machines when you board or you’ll be subject to fines of €100 or more.
- Keep in mind that while trains are more reliable than not, public transit timetables tend to be more of a guideline than a rule. Buses outside of the busier cities aren’t as reliable, so plan your transit early in case a bus doesn’t show.
- Choose your attire carefully if you plan to visit most churches and certain attractions; many have a dress code and you may not be allowed entry with exposed shoulders, midriff or knees (and this applies to both men and women). Some municipalities have expanded the dress code to include public areas as well. Read this Forbes article for more info.
- Many restaurants close between 3 p.m. and 7 p.m. for a break in the day called pausa, similar to a siesta.
- Reservations are recommended, and restaurants can be booked on various sites and apps like The Fork and Google Maps
For more recommendations of things to do and where to eat, visit our TripAdvisor Travel Map.