Belgium became an independent country in 1831, when it declared its independence from the Netherlands, but its history extends hundreds of years prior. With primarily French and Dutch influences, street and business signs in Brussels (Bruxelles) are in both languages; north of the capital city, in Bruges and Ghent, for example, you will see less French and more Dutch.
We stayed in Brussels for a month from May to June; such a great time of year! Occasional rainy days (or short afternoon rainstorms followed by sunshine), but overall, the weather was mild and comfortable. Brussels is beautiful, with tons of old churches and parks, endless things to do and places to eat. The city is working to make it more pedestrian-friendly with areas restricted from vehicles. We would highly recommend a tour with Sancar and a food tour with Su (access links below).
Our plans to rent a local apartment were derailed when the host cancelled nine days before we arrived, but we were able to book another accommodation in what ended up being a better area for our needs and lifestyle. We stayed in a hosted room at the Hilton Garden Inn, a great location in the Saint-Gilles neighborhood with very easy access to the Metro, grocery and restaurants. Getting to the main plaza was an easy 25-minute walk, about the same by Metro with one line transfer on days we were feeling lazy. Brussels’ Metro system is very easy to use – we purchased reloadable cards that allowed us to travel on subways, buses and local trains, and added funds as needed for transit. One card can be used by multiple people, and you scan the cards in and out of the stations. **Make sure to scan your cards, even if the gates are open – if transit workers verify your card and you’ve gained entrance into the lines without scanning, you are subject to a fine of more than 100€. You can purchase cards at some of the machines, but the easiest way to get them is to find a window with a human in the main Metro system adjacent to Brussel-Centraal station (follow the big tunnel underground).
Every trip should include a visit or two to Grand-Place, also known as Grote Markt, the plaza that novelist Victor Hugo (you might know him as the author of Les Misérables) called the most beautiful in the world. And it is gorgeous. Gold-gilded buildings stand tall and elegant over the square, with detailed carving and statues that represent the guilds of Belgium. A visit to the Museum of Brussels is recommended and is housed in one of the most striking buildings in the plaza.
Also a must is Manneken-Pis, a renowned statue near the main square. Yes, he’s peeing. And yes, sometimes he’s dressed in costume while doing it. You can also see Het Zinneke, a.k.a. “Zinneke-Pis” – the lesser-known companion to Manneken-Pis, this sculpture of a dog peeing can be found near the Eglise Sainte-Catherine de Bruxelles.
Some things to note about Belgian food staples: Eat the Chocolate. Eat some waffles. Drink some beer – Belgium brews more than 3,000 kinds, brewed by about 200 breweries, so you will find something you like. And try the frites (fries), and recognize that fries were not created by the French but by Belgians.
You can find chocolate all over the world, but Belgium is arguably where it was perfected. They have tons of rules and expectations for how it should be produced, and the end product is delicious. Definitely try offerings from multiple shops (our favorite is Mary’s). There are dozens of choices, and Belgium does them right. We would also recommend a chocolate-making experience.
Beer is also central to Belgian cuisine. We were constantly impressed by sheer number of options at every restaurant and pub, and the fact that each beer is served in a glass specific to its brewery and type – the temperature, glass shape and how you pour are essential to a good experience.
Don’t forget to try the waffles – liege (thicker with rounded edges) or Brussels (larger but thinner, slightly crispy) – whether you prefer a simple powdered sugar topping or loaded with sauces and fruit, they are absolutely worth the calories, and the liege waffles taste especially good on a cool, rainy day. Our favorite was a liege with pearled sugar straight off the waffle iron.
Things to Do & See
We normally book a walking tour when we get to a new city; for Brussels we booked two, and highly recommend both. A Historical Walking Tour with Sancar was a great experience on a rainy day, and our Food Tour with Su was a welcome distraction on one of the hottest days in Brussels. Both were a wonderful experience.
Grand-Place in Spring, May 2022
As mentioned above, no visit to Brussels is complete without seeing Grand Place and the surrounding area. Near the plaza you can also find Manneken-Pis and the museum dedicated to his costumes, as well as Choco-Story Brussels, where you will learn everything you need to know about chocolate in Belgium and around the world. (Reserve tickets ahead and skip the lines!)
Speaking of chocolate, there are a number of chocolate-making workshops – we recommend booking with the Brussels Chocolate Workshop and had a wonderful experience with Arthur. In addition to learning about the process, you will take home more than 30 handmade chocolates. Yummy.
There are also tons of museums, parks, churches and fun things to do in around Brussels, it all depends on your interests. As always, Google is your friend, and it may be worth it to buy the Brussels Card, with free admission to 49 museums and discounts to the best attractions, tours, shops, restaurants & bars in the city.
Eats
In addition to waffles, chocolate and beer, we did enjoy actual meals while in Brussels. Here are some noteworthy options:
- Woodpecker 20 – also known as Peck 20, a great place for breakfast, brunch and lunch. Lines tend to be long on weekends, but it’s worth the wait.
- Le Marmiton – located in the Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries, this was one of our favorite meals: fantastic service and really delicious starter and main options. Try the oven-baked mussels as an appetizer, and finish with the apple crepe.
- Café Leffe – a great place for beers on the terrace.
- Fin De Siecle – hearty Belgian food.
- Mille et Une Nuits – excellent Tunisian and Moroccan food; the couscous dishes are delicious.
- Chez Papa – reasonably-priced, delicious Lebanese food.
- Le Funambule – great shop for waffles near Grand-Place – every delicious sauce and fruit topping you could imagine.
- Mary Chocolatier – our favorite chocolate shop, and Mary’s story is the stuff of legends.
- Friture Pitta De La Chapelle – really good frites made the traditional way.
- Maison Dandoy – famous for it’s Speculoos, you can also buy chocolates, waffles and other treats at their shops.
Side Trips
A new addition to our pages! With so many options in and near Brussels, we took several day-trips. In a small country with a great transit system, it’s easy to get around and explore other areas. Here’s our take on the places we visited outside of Brussels. Some are really worth their own webpage, but for the sake of expediency, we’re listing them here.
Bruges (Brugge) – a truly amazing city about an hour train ride from Brussels. Don’t miss Markt Square and the Belfort van Brugge, a medieval tower in the square. Reservations are a must for the walk up into the belfry for beautiful 360 views of the city. A canal boat tour is not just recommended, but a requirement in Bruges, and there are several operators to choose from along the canals; reservations are not required. Carriage rides are also available from the Markt Square, fees are reasonable for 30–40-minute ride through the city. And stop by Pur Chocolate – their stuff is amazing.
Ghent (Gent) – another beautiful city of canals close to Brussels. We recommend a canal tour here as well and if you have time, rent a bike and explore the city. Don’t miss Gravensteen Castle – they have a quirky audio tour that is enjoyable for kids and adults alike. There are also a number of beautiful churches near the Leie Canal, and stop by the iconic St. Michael’s Bridge for Instagram-worthy photos. On a sunny day, you’ll find people relaxing on the walkways lining the canals – sit for a while and enjoy the amazing scenery.
Antwerp (Antwerpen) – an interesting city that mixes old with new. Don’t miss the Red Star Line Museum; located just outside of the primary tourist area, this museum is highlights the more than 3 million people who emigrated to the United States and is definitely worth the walk. Also stop by the Cathedral of Our Lady of Antwerp – beautiful but, sadly, covered by scaffolding and construction tarps. We’d hoped to visit inside but were a little disappointed by the high entry fee -12€ per person was a little more than we were willing to pay, especially considering that most of the churches in Brussels are free to visit.
Villers-la-ville (Villers Abbey) – a beautiful abbey founded in 1146 and abandoned for more than 300 years. A majority of the site had fallen into ruins, but the Abbey has been undergoing repairs and maintenance since being designated a historical monument in 1972. You can get here from Brussels via a train ride with a quick transfer followed by a 15-minute walk.
