From Buenos Aires to Patagonia
We were very excited about Argentina – from beautiful landscapes, to amazing food and iconic cultural influences, the country has much to offer travelers. It was especially inticing to check off another bucket list location with visits to Patagonia and Iguazu Falls (more about the falls in a later post).
We stayed in Buenos Aires for two months, renting an apartment owned by our incredible Lisboa landlord, who happened to have a place available in B.A. We also took the opportunity to take an actual vacation with a week in Patagonia.
Argentina is known for many things, including the above-mentioned national park area shared with Chile, as well as amazing food (especially beef and the Malbec to go along with it), and Tango, the expressive dance that is the story of Argentina’s early immigrants. But as always, we happily discovered so much more during our time in the country.
The capital of Argentina, Buenos Aires is huge. As of 2024, it’s the fourteenth largest metro area in the world; the city population is estimated at 3.1 million, with an additional 16.7 million in the surrounding area. As with most places we visit, there’s far more to see than we have time for, and we tried to make the most of our time in this dynamic city. The following are some of our favorite things about B.A.
At the top of our recommendations is the Feria de San Telmo, a massive street fair held on Sundays. Rain or shine, the area becomes a pedestrian zone where you can walk the 1-km (0.6 mile) length of calle Defensa to shop for trinkets, local wares, handmade gifts, and food. At the sourthern end of the feria is the Mercado de San Telmo, a bustling market with more of the same. While at the market, stop at Hierro Parilla for a cold beer and choripan, a delicious combination of chorizo (sausage) and pan (bread).
Also a great option is a food tour or cooking class, both of which we experienced. One of our favorite food tours of our travels so far was Buenos Aires’ Flavors with José in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. This tour was our introduction to choripan, vermouth cocktails (don’t knock it til you try it), and our favorite place for steak in the city (see more details below).
We also participated in an empanada-making class in San Telmo. Many countries in South and Central America have their own version of the empanada, but we especially enjoyed Argentina’s version with a flour-based, doughy crust, so we thought we’d learn how to make them. (Spoiler alert: they’re pretty easy.)
Tango originated in the working-class regions of Argentina andd Uruguay in the 1880s as an expression of customs and cultures. Later banned, Tango went underground but became more popular again in the 1980s. If you find yourself with an extra few hours, go to a Tango show. Is it a little cliché? Maybe. But it’s an incredible production. There are many shows you can book throughout B.A., but we reserved dinner and a show directly through Tango Porteño in their beautiful Art Deco theater and had a wonderful time.
Also a cool, if not morbid, landmark is the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the city’s first public cemetery. Built in 1822, the cemetery contains the graves and mausoleums of notable figures and families throughout the country’s history, including Argentine politician and actress María Eva Duarte de Perón, better known as Evita. The site is quite beautiful and reminded us of New Orleans’ St. Louis cemeteries, with vaults, mausoleums and statues honoring the dead.
If you enjoy libraries and bookstores, stop by the El Ateneo Grand Splendid – located in a converted theater built in 1919, it’s considered one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, and it’s free to enter. And if you’re a sports fan, there is nothing like watching a futbol match at a local stadium. It’s difficult to buy tickets independently, as some clubs limit who they sell tickets to. Your best bet is to book via a third-party site or agency that can secure entry for you and provide a guide for the experience.
Some things to be aware of in Argentina: The economy is struggling and the currency is unstable; one U.S. dollar equals around $1,000 Argentine pesos, and the most common bill is the $1,000 peso note. (We saw $2,000 peso bills a few times, and while the country produces bills of higher denominations, they are not widely used or available). It’s recommended to bring USD or Euros with you to Argentina and exchange them at casas de cambio (currency exchanges) or banks throughout the city. You’ll also find private agents in the tourist areas of town to exchange with, annoucing “cambio, cambio” as you walk by. Known as the “Blue Dollar”, this is the unofficial or black market currency exchange; it is technically illegal, but is widely used by locals and tourists. The Blue Market used to have a better exchange rate, but this may no longer be the case. If you’re concerned about the legality, stick to banks or official currency exchanges. ATMs are also widely available for cash, but they limit the amount you can withdraw at one time, and they charge exhorbitent fees – think $8 USD charged for a $20 withdrawal.
Regarding transportation, B.A. has a vast, reliable public transit system, with the subte (subway) and Colectivo (buses) – you can purchase and recharge the SUBE travel card at local corner shops for subway and bus trips. There are also remis (taxis) and Ubers available throughout the city, and they’re reasonably inexpensive.