From Buenos Aires to Patagonia
We were very excited about Argentina – from beautiful landscapes, to amazing food and iconic cultural influences, the country has much to offer travelers. It was especially inticing to check off another bucket list location with a visit to Patagonia.
Buenos Aires
We stayed in Buenos Aires for two months, renting an apartment owned by our incredible Lisboa landlord, who happened to have a place available in B.A. We also took the opportunity to take an actual vacation with a week in Patagonia.
Argentina is known for many things, including the above-mentioned national park area shared with Chile, as well as amazing food (especially beef, and the Malbec to go along with it), and Tango, the expressive dance that is the story of Argentina’s early immigrants. But as always, we happily discovered so much more during our time in the country.
A the capital of Argentina, Buenos Aires is huge. As of 2024, it’s the fourteenth largest metro area in the world; the city population is estimated at 3.1 million, with an additional 16.7 million in the surrounding area. As with most places we visit, there’s far more to see than we have time for, and we tried to make the most of our time in this dynamic city. The following are some of our favorite things about B.A.
At the top of our recommendations is the Feria de San Telmo, a massive street fair held on Sundays. Rain or shine, the area becomes a pedestrian zone where you can walk the 1-km (0.6 mile) length of calle Defensa to shop for trinkets, local wares, handmade gifts, and food. At the sourthern end of the feria is the Mercado de San Telmo, a bustling market with more of the same. While at the market, stop at Hierro Parilla for a cold beer and choripan, a delicious combination of chorizo (sausage) and pan (bread).
Also a great option is a food tour or cooking class, both of which we experienced. One of our favorite food tours of our travels so far was Buenos Aires’ Flavors with José in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. This tour was our introduction to choripan, vermouth cocktails (don’t knock it til you try it), and our favorite place for steak in the city (see more details below).
We also participated in an empanada-making class in San Telmo. Many countries in South and Central America have their own version of the empanada, but we especially enjoyed Argentina’s version with a flour-based, doughy crust, so we thought we’d learn how to make them. (Spoiler alert: they’re pretty easy.)
Tango originated in the working-class regions of Argentina and Uruguay in the 1880s as an expression of customs and cultures. Later banned, Tango went underground but became more popular again in the 1980s. If you find yourself with an extra few hours, go to a Tango show. Is it a little cliché? Maybe. But it’s an incredible production. There are many shows you can book throughout B.A., but we reserved dinner and a show directly through Tango Porteño in their beautiful Art Deco theater and had a wonderful time.
Also a cool, if not morbid, landmark is the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the city’s first public cemetery. Built in 1822, the cemetery contains the graves and mausoleums of notable figures and families throughout the country’s history, including Argentine politician and actress María Eva Duarte de Perón, better known as Evita. The site is quite beautiful and reminded us of New Orleans’ St. Louis cemeteries, with vaults, mausoleums and statues honoring the dead.
If you enjoy libraries and bookstores, stop by the El Ateneo Grand Splendid – located in a converted theater built in 1919, it’s considered one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, and it’s free to enter. And if you’re a sports fan, there is nothing like watching a futbol match at a local stadium. It’s difficult to buy tickets independently, as some clubs limit who they sell tickets to. Your best bet is to book via a third-party site or agency that can secure entry for you and provide a guide for the experience.
Buenos Aires is a great place for foodies, and while you might not be staying directly in the area of the following spots, we recommend considering these restaurant and bar options:
- La Carneceria – amazing meat, sides and wines. This place is so good, we ate there three times. Reservations are recommended, as it’s a popular spot; you can book a table online. As a side note, many people will recommend you go to Michelin-rated Don Julio Parrilla; skip it, because La Carneceria is better.
- Tres Monos – noted on many lists as one of the top 25 bars in the world, it’s great if you like gin; for us, it was just okay.
- Chori – local fast food with delicious choripan options, this was one of the stops on the B.A. food tour noted earlier on this page.
- La Fuerza – sharing plates and vermouth cocktails, and the meeting point for the tour with José in Palermo.
- Cochinchina – voted #26 bar in the world in 2023, really delicious and inventive cocktails, and the bartenders are awesome.
- La Posada de 1820 – a neighborhood restaurant with huge portions and friendly staff.
- Happening Puerto Madero – upscale dining on the canal with great steak, and extensive cocktail and wine options.
- Puente Gran Bar – cocktail and beer options, a cool vibe with regular DJs. A great place on the canal for nightlife.
And speaking of food, here are the things you have to try in country:
- Choripan – a delicious combination of chorizo (sausage) and pan (bread)
- All the meat, and as much Malbec as you can get your hands on – try the Picaña, a lean, floavorful cut from the top sirloin.
- Vermouth in all its forms; often served with ice, soda water and a slice of orange, it’s also used in many cocktails.
- Empanadas – you’ll find them everywhere.
- Chimichurri – served alongside asado (grilled meats), its freshness adds an incredible flavor to Argentine meat.
- Dulce de Leche – a sweet sauce made from caramelized milk and sugar, you’ll find specialty stores that sell it as well as on the shelves in the grocery.
- Alfajores – a traditional Argentine sweet treat of two cookies with a layer of creamy filling – this can include chocolate, jam, or other fillings, but is best with dulce de leche. You can find them covered in chocolate, but we preferred ours simple (rolled in coconut flakes).
- Mate – whether you prefer coffee or tea, you have to try Mate, a caffeinated tea made with the yerba mate plant. It’s a way of life in Argentina and other South American countries, served in specific mugs with metal straws, and shared amongst friends.
Some things to be aware of in Argentina: The economy is struggling and the currency is unstable; one U.S. dollar equals around $1,000 Argentine pesos, and the most common bill is the $1,000 peso note. (We saw $2,000 peso bills a few times, and while the country produces bills of higher denominations, they are not widely used or available). It’s recommended to bring USD or Euros with you to Argentina and exchange them at casas de cambio (currency exchanges) or banks throughout the city. You’ll also find private agents in the tourist areas of town to exchange with, announcing “cambio, cambio” as you walk by. Known as the “Blue Dollar”, this is the unofficial or black market currency exchange; it is technically illegal, but is widely used by locals and tourists. The Blue Market used to have a better exchange rate than banks, but this may no longer be the case. If you’re concerned about the legality, stick to the banks or official currency exchanges. ATMs are also widely available for cash, but they limit the amount you can withdraw at one time, and they charge exhorbitent fees – think $8 USD charged for a $20 withdrawal.
Regarding transportation, B.A. has a vast, reliable public transit system, with the subte (subway) and Colectivo (buses) – you can purchase and recharge the SUBE travel card at local corner shops for subway and bus trips. There are also remis (taxis) and Ubers available throughout the city, and they’re reasonably inexpensive.
Patagonia
Another bucket list location checked off: the beautiful region of Parque Nacional Patagonia. Located at the southern end of South America, the park surrounds a portion of the Andes Moutains across lower Argentina and part of Chile. It’s a haven for backpackers, nature lovers, and those seeking adventure. From the glaciers to the plains, to Lago Argentino and the mountain peaks, the landscape is like nothing we’ve ever seen before.
We vacationed in Patagonia for nine days, with our home base in El Calafate, which reminded us of some of Colorado’s popular mountain towns. With dozens of hotel and resort options, El Calafate is a great starting point for experiencing the area, with the other popular option being El Chalten. (The latter has a much calmer feel, with more hostels and camping areas.)
Many local tour operators in El Calafate offer hotel pickup as part of the package, so car rental is not required. But having a car available definitely allows you more freedom to travel at your own pace, and possibly experience time in both towns.
As far as we’re concerned, every visit to Patagonia should include Glaciar Perito Mereno. Once of the largest in the world, Perito Moreno glacier spans a surface area of more than 155 square miles (250 sq. km.), and towers an average height of 240 feet (74 meters) over Lago Argentino. It’s striking blue ice walls make for a dramatic and otherworldly landscape. There are several ways to visit, with or without a guide, but we would recommend booking with a tour operator to get the most out of the experience. From viewing the glacier on the nearby walkways, to a boat ride in front of the lake wall, to trekking across the top of the glacier, there are opportunities for every age and physical ability.
We opted for a tour with Patagonia Dreams that included transport to and from the park, a boat ride on the lake in front of the glacier, and time on the walkways overlooking the glacial field. Also an incredible tour is sailing through the north arm of Lago Argentino from Puerto Bandera to Spegazzini and Upsala glaciers. You’ll see glaciers bobbing and rotating in the water, and may even be able to enjoy a drink with ice chipped from one of the glacial remnants.
From El Calafate, you can also join the Nativo Experience, with a drive through the Patagonian steppe to the Punta Walichu viewpoint. Complete the tour with a 3-course meal in a cave overlooking the lake (available daily for lunch or dinner).
As mentioned earlier, we didn’t rent a car, so we relied on the tour operator for transportation, including a day trip to El Chalten. A popular spot for hikers and backpackers, it has a much different vide than El Calafate, with stunning views of Fitz Roy mountain and intermediate to advances hiking trails. We didn’t hike Fitz Roy, but were advised that it typically is a strenuous full day to hike to the summit at just over 11,000 feet (3,405 meters). There is also a less difficult hike to the best viewpoint, but that is still about 2-3 hours each way.
If you opt to stay in El Calafate and , try Waffles Como En Casa, a great little breakfast place. For lunch or dinner, try La Tablita for extensive meat options, and order the mixed platter at Mi Viejo on the main street.
