The format is a little different than our other pages, but here we go.
Normally, we list by the city we stayed in and highlight side trips we’ve taken. But the fact is, we were so completely blown away by the Andalusia region as a whole that we’re covering several of the locations we visited.
Málaga, Spain
After a month in the unusually cold temps in Denver, it was nice to return to Spain’s Costa del Sol to enjoy the warm weather and continue our travels. Upon our return to Europe, home base was a great apartment Málaga with several visits throughout the community of Andalusia. We were close to the Maria Zambrano train station with easy access to restaurants, shopping and transit. Also super convenient were the many car rental agencies in the station, allowing us to book a quick rental for weekend trips.
Málaga’s history spans more than 2,800 years, making it one if the oldest cities in Europe and one of the longest inhabited cities in the world. The most striking features of the entire region is the heavy Moorish influences – you see it every day in building décor and architecture, and in the alcavalas (fortresses) that loom over cities like Málaga, Cordoba and Granada. Not only does it highlight Spain’s history of embracing other cultural influences, it hints at the incredibly long historical importance of the Mediterranean region.
Tons to do in Málaga – definitely start with the Castillo de Gilralfaro and its spectacular neighbor, the Alcazaba de Málaga. The fortress requires a walk up the hill, but the views are unparalleled. After wandering the 1300s Moorish castle, head back down to the alcabzaba and spend some time enjoying the fountain-filled gardens.
Stop by the Mercado Central de Atarazanas for everything food related – you can find fresh fish, fruits, veggies, spices and treats. Several of the restaurants stay open after the stalls close at 3 p.m.; stop by for great tapas, incredibly low-priced drinks and experience the energy of the neighborhood.
In the center of old town is Catedral de Málaga, a beautiful, though unfinished, monument located where the Moorish Quarter once existed. For an extra €4, you can climb the stairs and walk the perimeter of the roof and see the city from above, which we would highly recommend.
You can find great restaurants all over Málaga, especially if you’re looking for tapas. One of our favorites was Restaurante Mio Vino, a great wine bar where we also enjoyed a pretty amazing and intimate Flamenco performance. Also try Restaurante EME de Mariano RS for dinner or lunch – try the local specialty Gazpachuelo, a creamy fish soup. The octopus and tuna were also amazing, and do not leave before partaking of the Torrijas de Pan Brioche, Spain’s amazing bread pudding.
If you’re looking to book tours in Málaga, we have two that we would absolutely recommend.
Join Alfonso for an amazing hike through the canyon on the Caminito del Rey Tour. You’ll drive up into the mountains and then hike on the walkway through the gorge. Once considered Spain’s most dangerous hiking trail, it was closed for over a decade before reopening after repairs. And for a sampling of the flavors of the city, book the Original Málaga Tapas Crawl, with stops at multiple locations for food and drinks. Our guide, Jane, was awesome and took us to some great places that are normally missed by tourists. She also had great recommendations for other spots in Málaga and the Andalusia region.
Córdoba
This was a city that is pleasantly surprising, primarily for one reason: Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba (Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba). Featuring stunning architecture, it’s a centuries-long blending of a 10th century mosque and a medieval cathedral. Wander the cathedral through its red and white arches, and take some time to appreciate the beauty of the Islam culture. Within the walls of the complex is the Bell Tower, accessible by a walk through the courtyard. For €3, you can climb the stairs to the top for a fantastic view of the Mezquita and surrounding Córdoba.
The city is quite walkable, and all of the following are in close proximity to old town:
- Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos – a royal compound and fortress, you can walk the ramparts and explore the terraced gardens.
- Roman Bridge – 1st-century bridge across the Guadalquivar River with a great view of the city’s riverfront.
- Wander through the Jewish Quarter and find the Callejas de las Flores (Alley of the Flowers)
- Medina Azahra – an archeological site west of the city, built as a showpiece (Caliphate city); park in the museum lot and a shuttle will take you up to the site, where you can explore on your own. The bus operates throughout the day, and the last bus leaves the site just ahead of the museum’s closing time (check with museum staff to verify last shuttle).
Granada
Known for medieval architecture dating back to Moorish occupation, Granada (the Spanish word for pomegranate) was founded in the early 13th century. Stroll down the Carrera del Darro, Granada’s charming river walk, where you might accidently pass by the El Bañuelo, a preserved and historic hammam (Arab bath) – entry is free, and the space is pretty amazing. As you walk along the river, your eyes will be drawn up the hill and you’ll see the one of the best-preserved Islamic palaces: the Alhambra. No visit to the region is complete without time spent at the fortress. Purchase tickets online for access to the fortress and Generalife and to tour the palace, nearby gardens and the citadel.
For spectacular views of Alhambra, head to Mirador de San Nicolas around sunset. Also nearby are the Catedral de Granada and the Royal Chapel, where Spanish monarchs Queen Isabelle I and King Ferdinand are buried.
A pro-tip for dining in Granada – restaurants will serve one free tapas with each round of drinks, so you can be conservative in terms of the amount of food you order. We recommend Bar Los Diamantes on Plaza Nueva. This cafeteria-style tapas bar offers tons of great food (try the Langostinos Pil-Pil) and is frequented by locals and tourists alike.
Sevilla
We spent two days in Sevilla at a cozy Airbnb. Located within walking distance of most of the major monuments, and right around the corner from the Setas de Sevilla, a wood sculpture with a viewpoint and archeological museum (a little pricy; we opted not to pay the €15 entry fee).
Arguably, the most popular of Sevilla’s tourist attractions are the Catedral de Sevilla and La Giralda Tower. The largest cathedral in the world and the fourth largest church, it is massive and absolutely beautiful. Purchase tickets online or at the door – tour the cathedral, and then climb the tower for exceptional views of Sevilla.
Nearby is Real Alcázar, a UNESCO site founded in the Middle-Ages and still used by the royal family. Buy tickets online for your time slot to avoid the often-long lines; your €13.50 ticket allows you into the grounds, the first floor of the palace, and the surrounding English gardens. For an additional €5.50, you can also visit the royal bedroom, still inhabited by Spain’s royal family.
Consider walking to the Plaza de España and Parque María Luisa, a large, semi-circle plaza with a canal and its surrounding park. You’ll often see musicians playing or an impromptu Flamenco performance. You can also rent small boats and laze in the canal, or tour the grounds via horse-drawn carriage. Also a highly recommended stop is the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla – the oldest bullring in Spain, and the third most visited monument in Sevilla. Entry includes a museum and access to the bullring.
An important part of the heritage of the region is Flamenco, and its birthplace is widely considered to be Sevilla. Book a performance at one of the many theaters in the city or other locations in Andalusia. Our experience wasn’t quite what we hoped, as the performance took place at a small, secondary stage. Verify with the theater where the show will take place, as we were directed to three different locations before we found the right place.
Ronda
Located about 65 miles (105 kilometers) from Málaga, Ronda is a great place for a day trip. Perched atop a deep gorge in the mountains, the city features dramatic views from above and below. Ronda is very walkable, with many parks and gardens on the cliffs. Walk along the paths that will lead you to the Puente Novo (“New Bridge”) that spans the gorge known as El Tajo de Ronda. For even more majestic views, drive or hike down to one of the miradors below the city to witness the bridge from below.
Famous in Ronda is the bullring, known as the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda. A two-minute walk from the Puente Nuevo, it is over 200 years old and one of Spain’s oldest bullrings. Admission allows access to the small museum onsite as well as the ring and several other areas of the arena.
We stopped for a quick bite at Restaurante Don Miguel; located in Hotel Don Miguel, the tables are arranged on terraced patios overlooking the gorge. The food was good, the servers are friendly, and the view is spectacular.
Gibraltar
Gibraltar, a British Overseas Territory, is geographically located in the province of Cádiz, Andalusia. Though not technically a part of the Andalusia region, Gibraltar is accessible via nearby city La Línea de la Concepción by car or on foot (unless you’d prefer to fly in). We opted to drive and park near border control – yes, you have to whip out your passport when you cross since you are technically entering British territory. Especially cool as far as experiences go is the walk in – you’ll walk across the airport runway to get to the main village.
Known for its famous rock, it was first settled by the Moors in the Middle Ages and then later ruled by Spain. The British have been in control of the area since 1713. It’s an odd mixture of Moorish roots, English pubs, and nature, and it’s a pretty cool place to visit.
Its military history includes caves, tunnels and batteries, some of which you can visit. We opted to ride the cable car up to the top of the rock and spend the day in the nature reserve and surrounding area. Buy the pass at the cable car station; we chose to walk to the station and purchase tickets on our own, but you can also find guided tours with operators near border control offering rides to and from the attractions.
After a ride up the cable car, wander the Nature Reserve trails while you watch out for the Macaques (who, if given the chance, will hop on your shoulder, open your backpack, and steal your stuff). If you purchase the Nature Reserve Pass, you can also access St. Michael’s Cave and experience the immersive sound and light show. Once believed to be bottomless, it was long rumored to be connected to Africa underneath the Strait of Gibraltar, and is now in use as a theater.
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