The Açores, commonly referred to as the Azores, are a group of nine islands (a.k.a. archipelago) in the Atlantic Ocean. Located 1,128 miles (1,815 kilometers) off the coast of mainland Portugal, the sub-tropic islands were formed as a result of volcanic activity. The climate is mild year-round, and the dramatic landscapes are breathtaking.
Travel between islands is fairly easy by plane, though it can be costly, and ferries are available between certain islands. We opted to remain on São Miguel Island for our five-week stay and did not take the opportunity to visit other islands (though we have heard very good things about all of them).
Our base of operations was Fajã de Baixo, a parish in the city of Ponta Delgado (the capital of São Miguel Island). We spent five weeks at Casa do Terraço; this lovely apartment is well furnished with fast Wi-Fi and free onsite parking, which came in handy when we rented a car for island adventures. You can also book via Airbnb. We especially liked the privacy and quiet space, and the hammock and patio table on the terrace was a nice bonus.
São Miguel Island is fairly small – less than 40 miles (63 km) long and up to 10 miles (15 km) wide. Where things get tricky is the limited road options. An example: we drove to the eastern end of the island for a beautiful hike (see Cascata do Salto below) that’s only 24 miles from our apartment, and it took a little over an hour to drive there. We opted to rent a car for three of our four weekends, and it gave us much better opportunities to experience the beauty of the island. Getting around is fairly easy by taxi (there are plenty available in the main cities) and they can be accessed using the Taxi Link app. Uber is not a great option – we only saw one driver available during our stay. There are local buses, but they don’t run as frequently as in the bigger cities (i.e., Lisbon).
The most important lesson we learned during our stay is that you have to be flexible with your plans. While the weather was mostly temperate, the islands seem to produce their own, ever-changing weather systems. All of the must-see wonders on São Miguel Island are accessible by car (and sometimes by car plus a short or mid-distance hike), but it’s common for the views to be obstructed by the weather, such as low clouds and rolling fog that sometimes forms around the higher elevations. We were fortunate to have several weekends available to have a do-over; if you have an absolute “I Gotta See This Before I Leave” destination, consider planning an additional day for make-ups, just in case. Our first visits to Lagoa do Fogo and Sete Cidades were both thwarted by fog and clouds, but we were able to see the full beauty of both on better weather days.
Interesting to note: practically no living thing on the island is native. All animals on the Açores, with the exception of some plants, birds and insects, were brought there by settlers. There are lots and lots of cows (so many cows), and they are reputed to be the happiest cows on Earth. There are also very few predators on island – so no foxes, coyotes, bears, etc. to harass the wildlife. The locals also love to talk about efforts to keep the Açores beautiful, and their use of geothermal and wind resources.
Things to Do & See
We’ve started to book walking tours when we arrive at new destinations, not only to get the lay of the land, but to chat with local guides who often have great recommendations for activities, restaurants, etc. Filipe with Pure Azores did not disappoint – we booked through Airbnb Experiences, but you can also book via TripAdvisor or directly at their website. We also took the Hidden Gems tour with Pure Azores and would recommend that as well. Their guides are knowledgeable and friendly, and they typically offer pickup from your hotel or rental.
One of our favorite excursions was the Jeep Tour with Green Zone and guide Mariano. This was the day that weather tried to ruin our fun, but we had a great time nonetheless (see above for mention of the importance of Plan B while visiting the Açores).
Every trip to the Açores includes Sete Cidades. Probably the most famous of the Açores landmarks, the civil parish of Sete Cidades is located in the 3-mile-wide crater containing the parish as well as Blue and Green Lakes. Simply put, this area is gorgeous
Cascata do Salto do Prego, considered a moderately challenging hike: traverse a well-groomed trail through the sub-tropics and arrive at one of the loveliest waterfalls we’ve ever seen. The solitude of this place is inspiring.
Located about 25 minutes from Ponta Delgada, Caldheira Velha is a natural park and and interpretive center, and you can walk the nearby trails in a rainforest-like landscape. But the highlight of this place is the thermal pools and the natural waterfall pool. Book online at least a day or two ahead and select the Full Ticket option to experience the pools for a 90-minute session; bring a suit and towel, there are changing rooms onsite. You can also skip the pools and still enjoy the park with a “Visit Ticket”.
Furnas is a civil parish hidden in a valley in the middle of the island where the famous Cozida das Furnas is prepared and served: a stew made with meats and vegetables, slow-cooked underground by volcanic heat. Visit the nearby lake (Lagoa das Furnas) and walk the trails. While in the area, don’t miss the Miradouro Pico do Ferro for fantastic views of the town and valley. Prepare yourself for the sulfur smell that lingers around town (if you’ve ever been to Yellowstone, you’ll understand).
No visit is complete without a Whale Watching Tour – what an amazing experience! We booked with TERRA AZUL via TripAdvisor, and would highly recommend them. Not only did they lead us to Sperm whales and Common and Bottlenose dolphins (who live off the coast of the islands year-round), but we saw a pod of three Orcas, which are not common in the Açores – the crew said they hadn’t seen orcas for almost five years. A little advice: if you are at all prone to motion sickness, take a Dramamine or similar pill beforehand.
Another highlight of the trip was a Dolphin Swim with Picos de Aventura – seven of us left the marina on a Zodiac, with the crew keeping an eye out for dolphins. When you see a pod, you hop into the water in groups of two with nothing but wetsuits, facemasks and a prayer. An unbelievably amazing experience; the water surrounding the island is dark blue and clear, and if you listen to the captain’s directions, you will see dolphins under water. Ability to swim is required, as you are in the open ocean.
A lesser known spot on the island is Ponta da Ferraria Natural Pool, where the natural-occurring hot springs meet and mix with the cold water from the Atlantic. The result? A spa-like experience in saltwater. The best time to go is one hour before and after low tide; check for tide times here. Check ocean conditions before heading out – even on a calm day, you’ll feel the pull of the tide. Water shoes are recommended, as you will need to walk over the rocky coastline to get to the pool. Park at Termas da Ferraria and follow the trail behind the building. There are also hiking trails if you’d rather not swim, and the scenery is beautiful.
For more gorgeous vistas, head to Lagoa do Fogo, or “Lake of Fire”, a beautiful crater lake and one of the iconic symbols of the islands. You can see it from several viewpoints, or miradouros, as you drive by. If you’re looking for a little more activity, you can park at the Mirodouro da Lagoa da Fogo lot and hike down into the crater from the viewpoint. Be advised that the Lagoa is a protected area, and swimming in NOT allowed.
We also recommend Nordeste, a beautiful city on the northeastern side of the island. It’s reasonably easy to access by car, but prepare for the winding roads and a few altitude changes. There are several miradouros within a few miles of town, and they have some of the most beautiful views you will see on the island. Also worth a visit is the Farol do Arnel (Arnel Lighthouse) – park at the lot near the Senhora da Nazare church and be prepared for a walk. The trek down is fairly easy, but the return journey is a bit taxing. Do not drive down to the lighthouse! The road gets narrow and the incline is steep in certain areas with lots of foot traffic.
While you’re on the islands, you can also visit a pineapple plantation. There are a number of them on São Miguel, and many very close to Ponta Delgada (more than one are within city limits). We stopped at Ananás Santo António more than once, mainly because it happened to be a block from our apartment. The plantations offer tours as well as fresh pineapples and other pineapple-based treats (cookies, jam and liqueur).
We would also highly recommend a stop at Chá Gorreana, a tea plantation on the coast. Family owned and operated since 1883, Gorreana is Europe’s oldest, and currently only remaining tea plantation. Tea is grown here free of herbicides, pesticides or preservatives for almost 140 years, and the rows of tea plants will have you mesmerized.
Eats
We’ve found the food of Portugal to be delicious in every city we’ve visited, and the cuisine of the Açores is no exception. The seafood and fish are especially good on the island, and you’ll want to start every meal with queijo fresco served with pimenta da terra, a red pepper paste. The cheese is creamy and mild, and the sauce is not spicy, but adds a tang of saltiness.
As in Lisbon, reservations are recommended, especially on the weekends and during the tourist season from June-August. While we’ve previously recommended The Fork, it was not as good of a resource on São Miguel, as many restaurants don’t use it. A better option is to search for the restaurant website or call them directly to book a table. You can also check out our blog post for more tips and info for dining out in Portugal and other parts of Europe.
Here are a few of our favorites on São Miguel Island:
- Restaurante Magma, Ponta Delgada – we reserved a table at Magma our first night on the island. The staff has great suggestions for food and wine: make it a point to try a white from Pico, and enjoy the saltiness of the wine with your seafood.
- Cais 20, São Roque – we ate here more than once, because the food is delicious, the portions are huge, and the staff is friendly. You also can’t beat the view. For dessert, try the house-made cinnamon ice cream.
- Michel, Ponta Delgada – one of our favorite meals. The dining area is small, so reservations are recommended.
- Cantinho do Porto, Ribeira Quente – located on the southeastern cost of the island, the owner and his wife are great hosts and the food was excellent.
- Restaurante À TERRA, Ponta Delgada – located in the Azor Hotel, the food is delicious and the staff are attentive and professional. Try the tasting menu, featuring local ingredients. You can also head up to the 7th floor and keep an eye out for ocean life at the Whale Watching Bar on the rooftop.
- Bar Caloura – food was good, the setting is even better. Request a table outside.
- Restaurante Mariserra, Ponta Delgada – food was good, the view overlooking the coast is nice. But double-check your bill before you pay – we were way over-charged for a lobster in both weight and price per kilo. We requested the bill be fixed and while the waiter was very responsive to our request, the manager didn’t seem to be concerned. Even with the bill adjustment, we felt like we paid too much for a lobster dish that was served cold.
- Saca-Rolhas Taberna – utterly surprising, this small but elegant restaurant is near the coast in Relva, just east of the Ponta Delgada airport. The dining room is lovely, and the food was very good.
