Lisbon, Portugal

Where do we even begin?  

We opted to stay in Lisbon for an extended period of time to allow the processing of our resident visas and to help us ease into our long-term plan of moving every 2-4 weeks. Lisbon quickly felt like home, and is definitely a place we could see ourselves living long-term someday.  

Lisbon has all of the things we love about traveling; history, architecture, great food, beaches and good weather. The country of Portugal has an amazing, long history, and the they’ve done a lot to preserve historical buildings and artifacts.  

We stayed between the Alfama and Baixa-Chiado neighborhoods, and found walking to be the best mode of transport near our flat. It’s also very easy to get around Lisbon via train, tram, bus, Metro, taxi and Uber. We’d recommend buying a Viva card soon after arriving – it will get you access to the Carris system (buses, trams and funiculars), the Metro system (subways), and the city rail system, which includes trains to nearby Sintra and Cascais. The Viva card will also allow you passage on the ferries to the other side of the Tagus River. For travel outside of Lisbon, we found the CP, Comboios de Portugal, to be an easy and economical choice – maybe not the fastest, but typically the cheapest.  

Things to Do & See

Lisbon is one of those cities that has something for everyone. The following are just a few of our favorites.

Convento do Carmo is one of our favorite places in the city. A former convent, the roof caved in after the 1755 earthquake and was left as a reminder of the event and its devastation. There’s also an interesting museum onsite that’s totally worth the €5 ticket price.

Lisbon Cathedral, also known simply as the Sé, is the most iconic religious building in the city. Originally constructed in the twelfth century and, like the Carmo Convent, damaged by the earthquake of 1755, it’s the oldest church in the city. It’s a beautiful building, and archaeological excavations of the Cathedral cloisters continues today. If you happen to take a ride on the 28E Tram, you’ll be able to see it up close; you can also buy tickets and tour the interior.

Aqueduto das Águas Livres and Reservatorio da Mae d’Agua das Amoreiras – Both part of the Lisbon Aqueduct system, you can step back in time and walk the old aqueduct or visit the 18th century reservoir complex.

Castelo de Sao Jorge towers above Lisbon on one of the city’s seven hills. Overlooking the oldest parts of the city, it arguably is one of the best views of Lisbon after Miradouro da Senhora do Monte.

Museu do Aljube Resistencia e Liberdade (Museum of Resistance and Liberty) in the Alfama neighborhood is dedicated to remembering the fight against dictatorship and those who fought for freedom against oppression. Many don’t know that Portugal was ruled by a dictatorial regime from the mid-1920’s until 1974. The building that houses the museum is the former prison where political prisoners were held and, sometimes, died. While we only planned to spend an hour or two, we found ourselves still wandering the museum after almost four hours. It’s worth visiting because of the insight it offers into the Portuguese people, who we found to be friendly but very reserved, especially where the older generations are concerned.

We are huge fans of aquariums, and Oceanario de Lisboa does not disappoint. Featuring a large main aquarium holding more than 5 million litres (1.32 million gallons) of seawater, you can also see birds, invertebrates and mammals. The Sea Otters are especially adorable.

Also a popular tourist destination is Belém, a southwestern district of Lisbon. Overlooking the Tagus River, you can visit the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Discoveries Monument). From there, head over to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. This beautiful National Monument and UNESCO World Heritage site is a must-see.

Nearby the monastery is Pastéis de Belém, considered by most to be the original pastel de nata, a.k.a. Portuguese custard cake. You can find these delicious pastries throughout Portugal, and the uber-bakery in Belém claims to be the first. For a quick tutorial, read this article from blogger Diana Bernardo.

A visit to Lisbon isn’t complete without a day-trip to nearby Sintra. Easily accessible by train from the Rossio station, Sintra features medieval castles, a vividly-painted former royal palace, and the Quinta da Regaleira, a mansion on the outskirts of town with beautiful gardens and the mysterious Poço Iniciático (Initiation Well).

Once you arrive at the train station, you can purchase a round-trip bus ticket that will take you to Palacio Nacional da Pena or the Castelo dos Mouros. Pena Palace is the bright yellow castle on a hilltop that’s typically associated with Sintra, and you can tour the inside. Nearby, within walking distance of Pena, is the Castelo dos Mouros, or Castle of the Moors. Now abandoned, it was built during the Moorish era (8-12th century) and is considered a national monument and UNESCO World Heritage site.

Once you head back to the town center, make your way to Quinta da Regaleira, a home also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The former owner was a Brazilian mining owner who was fascinated with the Knights Templar. On the grounds are the elusive Poço Iniciático, a spiral staircase dug into the ground and connected to a series of tunnels.

As impressive as the Initiation Well are the gardens and sculptures surrounding the home.

Other notable things to do and see:

• The National Pantheon (formerly the Church of Saint Engratia) has an interesting backstory and holds the tombs and cenotaphs of the country’s most important cultural figures, such as Fado icon Amália Rodrigues.
• Speaking of Fado, you can find dozens of places to listen to the mournful Portuguese ballads. A quick Google search will lead to to the Alfama and Barrio Alto neighborhoods where you can experience the music yourself.
• You’ll find millenia of Lisbon’s history on display at the Palácio Pimenta. Especially interesting is the model of the pre-earthquake city.
• Like many other European cities, you’ll find churches everywhere. Some especially beautiful examples are Church of Sao Vincente de Fora and Igreja de Sao Domingos, which hosted royal wedding prior to the establishment of the modern Portuguese republic.
• Known as the city of Seven Hills, Lisbon has options for amazing vistas. As mentioned above, don’t miss the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, considered one of the best views of the city. You can also stop by Miradouro de Jardim de Sao Pedro de Alcantara and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia.
• Best described by Google Maps as a “historical industrial complex houses an array of arty retailers and unique restaurants” the LX Factory is a short train ride from Cais de Sodre station.
• Cascais was previously the summer retreat of the Portuguese nobility, and has since become a popular resort town. Trains leave Cais de Sodre station every 20 minutes.
• If you fancy a trip to the beach, hop on the train to Cascais and choose one of the many stops along the way for great sun and sand. Try Praia de Santo Amaro (Santo Amaro station) or Praia de Sao Bruno (near the Caxias station). Open sand is first come, first served. The umbrellas and chairs near beach bars and restaurants require rental – typical prices are €15 or half day (a.m. or p.m.) or €20 for the whole day.

Eats

Portugal cuisine has it all. With it’s proximity to the water, dishes are unsurprisingly fish- and seafood-centered, but you’ll also find many other meats featured on menus. We tried so many new places and new dishes, and found cuisine to be as fresh and delicious as you might imagine.

One staple in Portugal is Balcalhau, or codfish – you’ll see it in the markets in various states (whole, salted, filets) and often in more than one dish on any restaurant’s menu. Portugal has a long history with cod, which you can read about in this blog by Sara Riobom.

Also popular is the above-mentioned Pastel de Nata, an egg custard pastry. You can find them everywhere, and if you ask ten locals where to buy the best, you’ll get ten different answers. You’ll find pastries of all kinds throughout Portugal, probably more options that you’ve ever seen in a small bakery or pastelaria. Portugal has an enormous range of options when it comes to sweets. The sheer amount of pastries that can be made with egg yolks and sugar is astounding. Rumor has it that centuries ago, convents and monasteries used egg whiles to starch their clothes and needed to find use for the leftover yolks. The result? The creation of hundreds of pastry recipes. It’s common for every town and/or region to have a specialty.

We used The Fork for restaurant options and reservations. We found it was helpful to reserve a table, especially on the weekends. Check out our blog post for more tips and info for dining out in Portugal and other parts of Europe.

Here are a few of our recommendations for eating out in Lisbon:

• O Ninho & O Corvo – Both were very close to our apartment, but it’s much more than just convenience. These two restaurants, owned by the same family, feel like lunch with friends. Set on narrow streets away from the bustle of the typical tourist areas, they’re more like small town cafes. Both are great places to hang out for a slow meal or a quick coffee – whichever you prefer. Fresh and simple, and the staff is great.
• Antiga – Right near the Se, this place became our go-to for dinner, and not just because owners Julio and Gabi want everyone to feel like family. The tapas-style menu is delicious, and we have tried nearly everything. Julio also offers great wine recommendations. Tell them we said hello. 
• Paladarium – Talk about convenience: this family-owned restaurant was less than 100 meters from our front door. Try the Octopus Lagareiro and the Alheria, a poultry sausage with honey and walnuts. For dessert, order the drunken pear. Sadly, this restaurant now appears to be under new management and the menu may no longer be what it used to be (as of May 2023).
• Dear Breakfast – Also near the Se, Dear Breakfast is the place to be for brunch. Their croissants are the best in Lisbon and the menu has lots of delicious options. The Eggs Benedict and Healthy Rancheiros are both great, and the sweet and salted pancake options are both heaven. 
• As Bifanas do Afonso – When in Portugal you must try bifanas – a traditional Portuguese sandwich made with thinly sliced pork that has been marinated in a sauce of white wine, garlic paprika, bay leaves and vinegar.  And if you try them anywhere, let it be at Afonso; they are served on the most amazing soft rolls with mustard and, if you like a little heat, spicy oil. The lines are long for a reason, and these bifanas are worth the wait.  At less than €3 each, they are also very economical.  Grab a beer or a glass of wine, hang out with the locals, and eat in the small plaza as this is a walk-up window only.  It’s a great place to stop for a snack on a day of wandering the area.  A must do in Lisbon. 
• Oven Lisboa – Chef Hari delivers really delicious Indian and Nepalese cuisine in the heart of Lisbon. Can’t tell you how many times we walked by this place without stopping, but it was so good, we visited twice when we returned in 2023.
• VDB Bistronomie – a farm-to-table restaurant using local, organic ingredients, the menu changes with the seasons.
• Terroir – A relaxed, comfortable space with two tasting menus available. Enjoy coursed “moments” of 5 or 8, with a wide selection on wine pairing options. Consider Terroir for anniversary dinners, celebrations, etc., as the price is higher than the options above (though well worth it).
• Sála – Located in a space that seats 36, Chef João Sá wants to welcome you as if into his home. Choose from the dishes on the Market’s Menu, or allow the chef to surprise you with the prix fixe menu- it’s all good (especially the first-course butter – trust us on this).