Where to start? Norway was amazing – the fjords and crystal-clear water, the wonderfully friendly people and long-held traditions. With a fair portion of our ancestry originating from the Scandanavian region, specifically Norway and Sweden (about 21% for Jen and a whopping 75% for Shawn), we weren’t going to pass up the chance to visit.
We started our time in Norway with a vacation north of the Arctic Circle in gorgeous Svolvær, gateway to the Lofoten Islands. Lofoten has been a bucket-list location for Shawn for years, and summer is an amazing time to visit. Since the sun never really sets, chances are you won’t see the Northern Lights in July, but you will be able to enjoy all of the outdoor activities northern Norway has to offer. The majority of our Norway stay was in Bergen, a beautiful city on the Southwestern coast.
Norway is a member of Schengen and the EEA (European Economic Agreement), but not part of the European Union. For travelers, this primarily means an EU visa will be accepted in Norway and you are subject to the 90-day Schengen rules, and that the primary currency is the Krone (NOK) and not Euros (though some shops will accept Euros or even USD as payment).
Some things to keep in mind before you get there: the weather is generally much cooler than in other parts of Europe (a quick look at a map to see its northern location will give you an indication as to why). It also tends to be fairly rainy, so make sure to have a Plan B available for anything you may have scheduled outdoors. And on a good weather day, get out there and explore. Norway is expensive, so budget accordingly – cost for meals out, for example, are 40-50% higher than what we saw in the Netherlands and Belgium. And if you plan to buy liquor, hit the duty-free shops at your airport prior to arriving; alcohol over 4.7% is regulated and sold by government-owned Vinmonopolet (literally translated as “the wine monopoly”).
We stayed at the Scandic Vestfjord Lofoten while in Svolvær, and our time in Bergen was spent at a great rental booked with Airbnb. The Scandic Vestfjord is a great budget option (budget for Lofoten, anyway), and the daily free breakfast buffet is 100% worth the nightly rate. The apartment in Bergen was in a quiet, family-friendly neighborhood and a 10–15-minute walk from the marina, the heart of the city.
Our suggestions for both Lofoten and Bergen are listed below.
Things To Do & See
Bergen
There is no shortage of activities in and around the Bergen area. Start with a hike up Mount Fløyen – with maintained, well-traveled trails, you’ll get great views of the city and harbor below. You can also skip the hike and buy tickets for the Fløibanen to scale 1,050 feet (320 meters) in 8 minutes. Buy tickets ahead of your visit to skip the frequently long lines.
No trip to Bergen is complete without a visit to Bryggen, the UNESCO World Heritage site that the coastal city is primarily known for. Walk through the shops in the historic harbor district and experience the neighborhood of the old wharf. Follow the crowds around the marina and pass by the fish market stalls (closed in winter) for fresh fish and seafood.
We would recommend buying the Bergan Card – offered as 1-, 2-, 3- or 4-day access, you’ll get free or reduced-price entry into dozens of museums and activities in and around Bergen (see the full list here). We would especially recommend the following, all of which are free or discounted with the Bergen Card:
- Fantoft Stave Church – an ornate building dating back to 1150
- Bryggens Museum – highlighting objects discovered during archaeological digs that provide insight into life during the Medieval Period
- Bergen Maritime Museum – learn about Norway’s close connection with the sea, featuring full-size boats, scale models, and interesting artefacts
- Rosenkrantz Tower – built in the 1560s, you can climb to the top for city and marina views
- The King Håkon’s Hall – the largest royal residency of the 13th-century
Further outside the city, and accessible by train, car or ferry, is Nærøyfjord, one of the best known fjords in Norway. You can experience it on a semi-customizable “Norway In A Nutshell” tour that will also include a ride on the historic Flam Railway, described as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. We would highly recommend this tour, as it walks you step-by-step through the logistics of planning the transit and transfers from train to historic railway, ferry and bus. A potential stop to add on the Nutshell tour is the Stegastein Viewpoint; extending 99 feet (30 meters) over the side of a mountain that towers 2,133 feet (650 meters) above the fjord, the views are impressive.
Lofoten
Tons to do in Lofoten as well; you’ll definitely want to rent a car for at least a day or two and make your way to other areas in the region. We flew into Harstad/Narvik Airport (EVE) and drove across the archipelago, but you also have the option to fly directly into Svolvær (the airport is just a few kilometers from the marina). We opted to spend a couple days focusing on Svolvær, and several days further from the hub of the Vågan Municipality.
Svolvær is the capital of Lofoten, as well as the archipelago’s biggest town. Called The Gateway to Lofoten, you’ll find a higher concentration of tour operators and activities in the area. Right on the marina, we found XXLofoten and took a nighttime kayak tour in broad daylight to experience the wonder of the sun that never sets. They have many other tour options, depending on the time of year traveled. Another must is a Trollfjord Cruise, where you can explore the fjord that, according to legend, was carved by the blades of the giant trolls that used to lord over the lands of Norway.
If you’re looking for a hiking challenge, head to the Fløya trailhead. This short, but intense, hike, will challenge your body. Like, a lot. But the view of Lofoten and a stop by the Insta-worthy Djevelporten (The Devil’s Gate) will make it all worthwhile. This is, without question, the most intense and challenging hike we’ve ever experienced.
If you have the chance, head out of Svolvær and check out the other amazing locales Lofoten has to offer. The Lofotr Vikingmuseum is an hour’s drive from Svolvær, and a great activity for adults and kids alike. It’s a living museum with a beautifully built longhouse replica, a working Viking-era boat (you will be required to row, so don’t be lazy), and other activities that give visitors a peek into how Vikings lived more than 1,000 years ago.
Not too much further down the road is Haukland Beach, considered by some to be the best beach in Norway. The beautiful turquoise waters and spectacular surroundings will impress you. If you have time, walk the coastal track along the coast to Uttakliev Beach.
Also popular are the fishing villages of Henningsvær and Nusfjord – both are picturesque locales that perfectly capture the history and experience of coastal Norway.
Eats
As with everywhere we’ve ever been, food is a driving factor. Here are some noteworthy options for both Bergen and Lofoten.
Bergen
- Bryggen Tracteursted – in the heart of Bryggen, they serve Norwegian tapas with fresh ingredients unique to this part of the world. Definitely try the reindeer tartar.
- Fish Me – one of our favorite spots in the marina, this seafood restaurant has great food options and a terrific cocktail menu. If you’re looking for a quick drink, stop in at the bar and tell them we said hello.
- Fish Market – one of Norway’s most visited outdoor markets; it’s been in existence since the 1200s for a reason. Visit the open stalls (closed during the winter) and try the shrimp sandwiches or the fish & chips at one of the many vendors.
- Agave Bergen – fancy Mexican cuisine while in Norway? Agave offers stylized street tacos and sharing plates, and their drink options are plentiful
- Bryggeloftet & Stuene – this historic restaurant in Bryggen does not disappoint; order the traditional fish soup, and the reindeer filet and slow-cooked leg of deer are delicious.
- Godt Brød – breads, cakes and sandwiches, easy to grab and go with coffee or tea (multiple locations in Bergen).
Lofoten
- Bacalao – a good bar with decent food, right on the marina
- Nordis – also good, also on the marina; we stopped in for an appetizer and drinks. Try the shockingly-large bowl of mussels
- Paleo Arctic – beautiful restaurant on – you guessed it – the marina. A little pricey for what you get, but the place is beautiful and the staff is great
- Pizzaria Fellini Lofoten – a budget friendly restaurant with pizza, sandwiches and beer.
- Restaurant Kjokkenet – a homey restaurant on the water with Midwest-lake-cabin décor and a seasonal menu. Reservations are recommended. Try the whale steak.
- Fiskekrogen – a good meal in the small town of Henningsvær – dinner with views of the marina and friendly service.
- Henningsvær Lysstoperi and Café – a must-visit for coffee, cake, and Skillingsboller, the delicious cinnamon buns that Norway has perfected.
