While we initially planned to stay in Amsterdam, we had a change of plans, and we are extremely glad we did. We found ourselves in Rotterdam, and absolutely love the city.
Following the Rotterdam Blitz in May of 1940, the city was overtaken by German forces and nearly destroyed. During reconstruction, Rotterdam was able to do something most European cities cannot – urban planning. As a result, Rotterdam is a beautiful combination of old and new, and the new is some of the coolest architecture you will see in Europe. From the Cube-Houses and Markthal to the Erasmus Bridge and Euromast, Rotterdam is a city like no other.
When you arrive at Centraal, head to an RET kiosk or the tourist information center in the main atrium. Here, you can purchase day passes or reloadable cards to get you on the buses, trams and metro system.
We stayed in a flat in the Middelland neighborhood, a very dynamic and diverse area of the city. Tons of food options, nightlife and shops, with two major grocery stores nearby. The tram line ran right in front of the apartment, with the nearest station only a block away. The apartment has been beautifully updated and has all the amenities needed for short-term or long-term stays, and the host was responsive and helpful.
Things To Do & See
As is our usual practice, we started the trip with a Hike & Bite Food Tour to familiarize ourselves with our new surroundings. Without doubt, the best walking tour we have ever experienced. You get four hours of walking, Dutch food sampling, and stories about history and culture. You will see the popular tourist spots as well as the lesser-known attractions, like a hidden rooftop farm and a harborside food court.
While you’re in town, try not to miss Markthal, a stunning piece of architecture constructed in 2009. The building serves as office and living space, as well as a marketplace and restaurants, and the art inside is fantastic. Nearby is the iconic Cube House, a bizarre example of the Rotterdam’s architectural styling; and yes, people actually live in there. Also recommended are the Euromast Tower, the Erasmus Bridge, and a tour on one of the many boats operating on the Nieuwe Maas and in the harbor – all of these can be experienced with a healthy walk and within a half-day.
We always appreciate a good zoo, and while spending a month in Rotterdam, it seemed we shouldn’t leave without visiting Diergaarde Blijdorp. The zoo is large, and we would recommend allowing at least three hours. The walk-through aquarium in the oceanarium is particularly cool.
Just outside of Rotterdam is Kinderdjik. This place is magical and worth a visit. The area has the highest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands in a rural setting, still much like it appeared when built in the mid 1700’s. Several of the windmills are private, but there are a few that you can tour. The grounds are generally pretty quiet and there is less activity the farther you go away from the main area. We took the ferry/waterbus from Rotterdam, which is inexpensive and easy to navigate. Bike rental is available at the main tourist shop and can be rented on an hourly basis – we rented bikes for about an hour and rode around the area, and then explored a little more on foot. It’s just a cool view of simpler times in a beautiful setting.
Eats
- Fenix Food Factory and Kaapse Brouwers – Described as “a culinary hub with a food hall, craft brewery and stalls selling meat, vegetables & dairy produce”, our first visit was at the end of the food tour when we stayed to try out beer flights. We came back a second time to try some others. If you like to sample well-crafted, small-batch beers with some great flavors, then this is your spot.
- Poffertjes Salon Seth – If you haven’t heard of Poffertjes (pronounced “POFF-er-jess), it’s something you need to know about. Delicious, bite-sized sweet snacks covered in butter and powdered sugar. We tried many, and we think Seth makes the best. Reservations are not required.
- Dahlak (formerly Sallina’s) – Eritrean food at its best. If you’re unfamiliar with the cuisine, try the chef’s special for two – seven chef-chosen dishes and sides. Everything on the platter was fabulous, served with injera (a type of flatbread) that you use to scoop up the food. We didn’t use any silverware, as is customary, but for those not willing to eat it with your fingers, I’m sure they can get you some.
- Ted’s All Day Brunch – A small restaurant on top of an older commercial building that is surrounded by a rooftop garden. The garden supplies the restaurant with fresh produce (and supplies to a couple other restaurants as well), and provides a unique place to eat, as well as a small and interesting oasis in the middle of the city. The food was excellent. Reservations are recommended.
- Pistache Halab – The convenience of being nearly right across the street from us was helpful, but it was the wonderful flavors of the food that brought us back for multiple visits. The place was busy every time we were there, but you can also get food to go. If you plan to sit, they do not take reservations and you might have to wait to be seated during the peak times. The staff is friendly and helpful. We tried several dishes, and everything is fresh and well-seasoned. The food is a good example of a typical Syrian cuisine.
- Louise Petit – Very flavorful brunch in true French style. The Croque Madam was one of the most flavorful versions we’ve tasted. The eggs benedict is also very good. A nice quiet location right next to a small marina and a great spot for a meal, drink or snack.
- Knoflookrestaurant – Literally translates as “garlic restaurant”. If you don’t like garlic, then this is not the restaurant for you. The concept is to take garlic as a component of nearly every menu item; even the dessert has hints of garlic. Try the roast leg of lamb – definitely one of our favorite dishes in Rotterdam. We’re always willing to try new foods, so while the idea of adding garlic to desserts is still a little out there, we had to dive in and try. Oddly enough, it works. Try it out.
Side Trips
No trip to the Netherlands is complete without a visit to Amsterdam – in fact, it’s probably the primary destination for most people visiting the country. We found it to be a lively city, with lots of young tourists buying weed at the coffeeshops and visiting the Red Light District. We stayed for a weekend, in addition to a day trip for a previously scheduled reservation at the Anne Frank House.
Here are some of the highlights, including activities, restaurants and lodging:
- Anne Frank House – An absolutely moving experience, especially for those of us who have read The Diary of A Young Girl. The house that Anne and others hid in for two years is still standing and has been amazingly preserved and maintained. Walking through the annex itself is surreal. It is one of the life experiences that will stay with you forever. Tour tip: you are required to buy tickets online and must purchase them for a specific date and time slot. On the first Tuesday of each month, all tickets for the following month become available. We recommend you choose a museum entry ticket with an introductory program. You will not be able to walk up to the house and pay to get inside without prior reservations. When you purchase tickets, make sure not to skip the introductory program; it sets the tone and gives you history and insight into the time and circumstances.
- Canal Cruise – There are many choices for a canal cruise, which is a must while in the city. We especially enjoyed a tour with Flagstar Amsterdam. While Gert masterfully piloted the boat, Virginia informed us about Amsterdam and the canals, with wine, beer or water and Dutch cheese provided. The weather was perfect, and Virginia was not only very informative and friendly, but offered an extensive list of spots to hit while we were in town. A short and easy tour, but is a must-do while visiting Amsterdam.
- Rijksmuseum – There’s a reason that this museum is on EVERY list of things to do in Amsterdam. A combination of history and art, booking ahead is highly recommended, as they were turning a few people away on the day we were there. The real crowds were in the large hall housing the Rembrandt and Vermeer collections. While not huge art lovers, there is a reason these guys are considered masters: their work is exceptional. Allow for at least a half-day if you’re planning to see it all. And make sure you’ve got comfortable shoes for all the standing and slow walking.
- Foodhallen – A cool place for some quick bites, with seating in the center and restaurants around the fringes. Check out the options first with a quick walk around, then try to find a free table and grab your food (in shifts, if necessary). A bar in the middle offers beverages more than the soda or water at the stands. The restaurants themselves are small booths – think stationary food trucks. Great variety and a cool and trendy place to try out. We can recommend Bulls & Dogs for sausages made by a local butcher, and Viet View for delicious Vietnamese street food.
- Omelegg (de Pijp) – We met a local friend here; this is one of her go-to spots for brunch with friends in the neighborhood. As the name would suggest, omelets are their specialty but there are other options as well. Try the El Chorizo or the gorgonzola bacon with sun-dried tomatoes, chive and oregano. The flavors were excellent and the size was sufficient to last several hours of wandering around Amsterdam.
- Bacco – We met the owners of this restaurant on New Year’s Eve in Lisbon months before we made our way to Amsterdam. They were wonderful so we, of course, promised to visit. Owners Daniela and Vittorio are both Italian born, and the menu is fresh and simple but with bold flavors. Our meal was fantastic from start to finish. And do not leave without trying the Sgroppino, an Italian cocktail made with lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco.
- Hotel Espresso – A comfortable boutique hotel just outside the city center with easy access to transport. This is not a long term stay kind of place, as the rooms are basic and compact, but for a short stay was just fine. The staff was friendly and helpful, the rooms were clean and the bed comfortable.
Worth a short train ride is The Hague (Den Haag), the administrative and royal capital of the Netherlands. Start the day with breakfast at Café Bartine, blocks from the centraal station. For the art fans out there, plan a trip to the Mauritshuis where you’ll find Vermeer’s Girl With The Pearl Earring, among many other pieces.
Delft is also nearby – think of it as chill college town meets the canals of Amsterdam. There, you’ll find Delftware, the region’s iconic hand-painted blue and while pottery. You can visit the Oude Kerk near the main square, recognized by it’s 75-meter (246-foot) tower with a considerable lean; it’s also the burial place of native son Johannes Vermeer. Stop by the market square and if you have time, head over to De Beestenmarkt and sit at one of the many bars under the tree-covered plaza.
