If you’re considering a visit (or maybe dream of going someday), read on…
Many words come to mind to describe the Patagonia region of South America, but I’d start with magical. I’d then continue with awe-inspiring. Breathtaking. And then add gorgeous. (Can you tell we were wowed??)
Encompassing the southernmost part of Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is known for its stunning natural wonders and beauty. From Monte Fitz Roy to Perito Moreno Glacier, grasslands to fjords, and featuring Los Glaciares National Park, it’s a mecca for hikers, explorers and tourists alike.
We actually took vacation time for this one, and accessed Patagonia from Buenos Aires (where we lived for two months) via LATAM airlines. With a flight time of 3+ hours, it’s certainly quicker than driving. Our home base was El Calafate, the city that’s considered the gateway to Los Glaciares. Another popular destination in the region is El Chaltén, where it’s more common to see international diehard backpackers attempting to summit Fitz Roy.
Typically, our vacation time is pretty well planned in advanced, courtesy of Shawn. This trip was a little different for one primary reason; the weather can be an absolute wildcard. The busiest and best time in the region is during Argentina’s summer months of December through February. We visited in March, which is after the high season has ended, and knew we were unlikely to experience optimal weather. We weren’t competing with crowds of tourists, so we were able to stop at the tour offices on our first day in town and book excursions based on the next day’s forecast. (This was especially hard for Shawn, whose Type-A personality meant that this approach took some convincing.)
Calafate reminded us of Estes Park in the Rocky Mountains; lots of restaurants, outdoor gear shops, people mulling around from souvenir shop to brewery between hikes and exploring. It’s a great base of operations, as it’s where the majority of the tour companies are located. We stayed at the Paraiso Patagónico Bungalows and Apart Hotel; with a kitchenette for our extended stay, it was a great option for us. Located about a 15-minute walk up the hill from the edge of El Calafate, the hotel overlooks Lago Argentino with its milky-blue waters and features the mountain skyline on the horizon. The hotel staff is awesome, and the rooms are comfortable.
Patagonia is expansive and more accessible with a car, but the cost for rental can be high; we opted to rely on tour pick-ups for excursions, and walked into town as needed. Transport to and from El Calafate airport (FTE) can be tricky without a rental car; the easiest way is with a taxi, which will cost around $28 (25,000 ARS) each way. Payment can be arranged at one of the taxi offices located near the baggage claim, and you can pay by card. Budget transport from the airport is available but tricky – there’s a bus that will bring you to El Calafate or El Chaltén, but we had a hard time confirming routes and timetables; as with many things outside of the U.S., schedules are more of a guideline than a rule. It was also fairly common to see people hitchhiking along Ruta Nacional 40, the highway that stretches 3,728 miles (6,000 km) from the north end of Argentina to the southernmost city of Rio Gallegos.
Moving on from logistics, let’s get back to the fun stuff.
In terms of activities and things to do, if you’re up for a challenge, hiking or trekking is the way to go. Whether you rent a car or book a tour to get to a trailhead, there are tons of trail options. If you’re less likely, less willing or not able to tackle a serious climb, there are ample tours available that will get you to the most picturesque spots in the Santa Cruz region.
One of the highlights of the trip was Los Glaciares National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier. Along with Puerto Madryn and Iguazu Falls, Perito Moreno is one of the places in Argentina most visited by foreigners. Covering a massive area of 97 square miles (250 km2), it’s one of 48 glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field shared by Argentina and Chile, and the world’s third largest reserve of fresh water. The amazing thing about Perito Moreno is its accessibility; in addition to getting there via the local roads, you can hop on a boat and view it from water level (which is spectacular), or you can hike across the top of the mass of ice.
Our tour with Patagonia Dreams offered bus transport and a boat ride in front of the glacier, which is one of the most incredible things we’ve ever seen. (Pro tip: if you’re going to go out to the front of the boat and happen to see chunks of the glacier callapse, get ready for your shoes and pants to be wet and cold.) You then head back to the port and hop on the bus that takes you to the glacier walkways for different vantage points. Amazing.
Another regional highlight is El Chalten, Argentina’s trekking capital. Located 133 miles (214 km) from El Calafate, it’s the gateway to the trails in and around Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, the twin peaks of the region. The town of El Chaten is small, offering less options and amenities than nearby Calafate, but with a more laid-back, calm vibe. We originally considered staying here, but agree in hindsight that El Calafate was a better choice for us.
Once again, we booked the El Chalten experience with Patagonia Dreams. With a drive time of around 2.5 hours, the tour included stops along the way for photos ops and refreshments at Estancia La Leona, which sits alongside the La Leona River. The trip offered two easy walks, one to a waterfall and the other to the Mirador de los Condores (Condors Viewpoint). The mirador has beautiful views of Fitz Roy, El Chalten, and the surrounding peaks.
A little bit of a side note here: the guide and driver for this tour went above and beyond. Bus rides in general are not a good thing for me due to motion sickness – Dramamine-type pills are always in my backpack. I managed to get what I assume was food poisoning that morning and didn’t fully realize it until right before lunch, so a day of motion on a bus plus food poisoning ended up being a near disaster. Both the driver and the guide were absolute rocks stars and incredibly helpful, as were all the other guests on the bus who had to deal with the four stops that had to be made on the way back due to little old me (enough said).
Moving on: as if we didn’t have enough ice in our lives, we also booked the Todos Glaciares tour (again, with Patagonia Dreams – apparently, we had a favorite tour company). This tour started with a short bus ride to Puerto Bandera followed by an extended boat trip on Lago Argentino to see Spegazzini and Upsala Glaciers from the water. Again, these glaciers are unreal.
The final tour was local to El Calafate, and a pretty cool look into history. The Nativo Experience is a 4×4 excursion along the coast of Lago Argentino to visit Punta Walachu, an archeological site with native cave paintings. Following a short walk through the site, they offer a unique lunch or dinner in caves overlooking the lake shore. (Spoiler alert: it was crazy cold and windy when we were there, but they had ponchos for everyone to use, and eating in a cave under the stars was pretty cool.) This was also booked through Patagonia Dreams, but run by a different tour operator.
A couple suggestions: bring cash to pay for potential entrance fees into the parks. It is also recommended by tour operators that you bring your passport. And regarding cash – the economy in Argentina has been unstable, and it is difficult to get cash out of ATMs. The amount you can withdraw is low (typically around $20-40 USD), and the fees are high (sometimes 50% of the withdrawal amount). Your best option for cash is to bring USD or Euros with you, and exchange them at one of the Cambio (change) offices for ARS. Some operators and businesses in the tourist areas will also accept USD or Euros as payment or for tips.
A few quick recommendations for food options in El Calafate:
- La Tablita – a mutton barbeque restaurant with really delicious, inexpensive meat options. Reservations during high season are probably recommended, though we did not need one when we visited
- Waffles Como En Casa – great little breakfast spot
- Casimiro Bigua – another good option for meats cooked over charcoal – you can get a platter with different cuts from different animals
- La Posta – located inside the Hotel Posada Los Alamos, the highlight is grilled lamb but there are tons of other options as well. We were there past dark, but reportedly, the deck has amazing views of the city. Reservations are required, and the best part? They have a shuttle bus that will pick you up at your hotel and bring you home after dinner
- Patagonia Cerveza – located right on the main strip in El Calafate, good beer and snacks options, a chill spot for rest after a long day of trekking (or sitting on a bus)
To sum it up: Patagonia is a place that needs to be on more bucket lists.
